Then why was the computer removed, that boosts MPGs more than anything else will.
How to make EGR work
- Thread starter johnson350
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Then why was the computer removed, that boosts MPGs more than anything else will.
I'm not too sure on what the vacuum advance is, also not sure on total timing, which is pretty important, yes I know lol. All I know is that the initial timing is at 17 with the vacuum advance plugged in.
Yes the stumbling goes away when I disconnected the egr. It has been disconnected since I took out the computer until today where I tried to make it work.
Also the flooding issue is more a heat soak issue. Runs great, just floods after the engine is shut down hot. Lowering the float level seemed to help some but the percolation is still occurring.
Right, I totally forgot about rockauto lol, here I was comparing advance auto and autozone prices. Well it would probably be easier/cheaper/make engine bay cleaner if I just put on a block off plate instead of buying a different valve. I'm not too concerned about emissions.
Yes the stumbling goes away when I disconnected the egr. It has been disconnected since I took out the computer until today where I tried to make it work.
Also the flooding issue is more a heat soak issue. Runs great, just floods after the engine is shut down hot. Lowering the float level seemed to help some but the percolation is still occurring.
Right, I totally forgot about rockauto lol, here I was comparing advance auto and autozone prices. Well it would probably be easier/cheaper/make engine bay cleaner if I just put on a block off plate instead of buying a different valve. I'm not too concerned about emissions.
Yeah I know what you're saying. Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing the ccc, but...
Half of the stuff quit working. It wasn't running too good and getting bad mileage. Had a bad TPS and could never get the lockup to work. Plus the ccc carb was no good, the casting was rotten. I pretty much just used what I had, which was a non-ccc Dualjet. Also I won't lie, it's alot cleaner under the hood.
Still pondering about swapping the Buick V6 for a Buick 340 or 350. I already got a good BOP TH350 with the 6 inch tailshaft.
You need to verify your timing. You can't determine where the initial timing is set if you still have the vacuum advance plugged in ( assuming it's plugged to manifold vacuum ).
All you need to do is unplug the vac advance and check the initial timing. Then plug the vac advance back in and check it again. The difference between your two readings is how much vacuum advance your vacuum can provides.
You need to check your total timing too and see when it's all in by. Your timing is much more important than an EGR valve which you really shouldn't even bother with anyway.
All you need to do is unplug the vac advance and check the initial timing. Then plug the vac advance back in and check it again. The difference between your two readings is how much vacuum advance your vacuum can provides.
You need to check your total timing too and see when it's all in by. Your timing is much more important than an EGR valve which you really shouldn't even bother with anyway.
Buick 350? That's the way to go- don't even consider anything else. Great bottom end torque, and will swap right in. Are you still running the CCC distributor? That needs to go. Then if you decide to leave the EGR off, merely re-time to pre-EGR specs, which would be by trial and error since the 231 came after EGR was standardized in '73. I'm not sure if the old odd-fire V-6 would count.
I appreciate you guys helping me out, sorry for my lack of knowledge. Timing is still one of the parts I'm iffy on, not so much why you need timing advance, but how to figure it all up with the vacuum and mechanical.
Ok, got it. It is currently plugged into manifold vacuum at the moment. Does it matter whether it gets plugged into ported or manifold after I set the initial?
Doesn't one need a timing light with an offset feature to figure out the total? My timing gauge is the factory plastic one mounted above the harmonic balancer and it only goes to like 20 degrees. All I have is just a regular timing light with no offset feature.
I'm looking around for a SBB, they can be hard to come by around here. I've been reviewing Blake442's thread about the swap. Yikes, hope I don't have to carve up the ac box!
But I need the 6 going at the moment, my G is my daily driver at the moment, looking for a older s10 so I can change that. I mean the 231 isn't a terrible motor, it's been rebuilt very nicely, had the oiling mods done, steel timing set put in, all the smog crap is gone, basically eliminated all the stuff that usually goes wrong with it.
No, I swapped out the CCC distributor at the same time I took out the computer and put in a vacuum advance from like a 78-79 Buick 231.
And most likely I will be leaving off the EGR, if its mainly for emissions purposes.
It sounds like you did everything the right way. Well, I once did all that too, and the 231 still had crummy gas mileage. I think it's because you are asking a tiny motor to push a heavy car so your foot is always in it. A big motor doesn't even have to work hard, and my 301 gets better mileage than the 231 ever did. A 350 would just be incredible. Hey, you got time, just be patient.
Couple things;
Are you sure your numbers are accurate, because if you have 20 degrees of vacuum advance ( which sounds about right for a stock one ) and you say your initial timing is at 17 WITH THE VACUUM ADVANCE, then that means your base timing is actually set at 3 degrees AFTER tdc which is way too low. Verify your base timing with vacuum advance UNPLUGGED.
Without EGR, you need to run less vacuum advance. You can do this by limiting the travel of the rod on the vacuum advance unit or you can get an aftermarket one that provides less advance.
Timing tape on your balancer is a cheap easy way to be able to check your total advance as well as knowing how much mechanical advance you're getting at various rpm's.
Are you sure your numbers are accurate, because if you have 20 degrees of vacuum advance ( which sounds about right for a stock one ) and you say your initial timing is at 17 WITH THE VACUUM ADVANCE, then that means your base timing is actually set at 3 degrees AFTER tdc which is way too low. Verify your base timing with vacuum advance UNPLUGGED.
Without EGR, you need to run less vacuum advance. You can do this by limiting the travel of the rod on the vacuum advance unit or you can get an aftermarket one that provides less advance.
Timing tape on your balancer is a cheap easy way to be able to check your total advance as well as knowing how much mechanical advance you're getting at various rpm's.
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