How To: Sub $250 Stainless Swap Headers

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81cutlass

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Feb 16, 2009
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A problem with LS swaps is the expense of headers. Holley has them but they are $400+ for mid length mild steel and $550+ for long tubes. Stainless long tubes are upwards of $1100. Nice, but when you are on a budget and the fact that they cost more than most of the complete engines do it is often cost prohibitive.

Enter- Speed Engineering 98-02 F body stainless long tubes. Speed Eng copied pacesetter mild steel ones at a lower cost. I paid $242 shipped. http://www.speed-engineering.com/sh...3-4-1998-02-camaro-firebird-race-version.html

No, these won't be drop in like specific swap headers but if you have any fab skills they are a great option. Before you say its China junk these are actually pretty nice. I magnet tested the tubes and they are legit stainless. Flanges on the other hand were fairly magnetic and looked coated. My bet is that the tubes are 304 and the flanges are mild steel. Tubes are thin however. Not as thick as I would expect a $1000 set but these aren't bad. Welding isn't bad either. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality.


And before you say its un 'merican to buy Chinese stuff, damn near most header options are made offshore. From what I understand even TSP long tubes are made in Yulong Dingdong China.

This fitment applies to both the Speed Eng OR Pacesetter 1 3/4" longtubes. They are the same, just the ripoff stainless set are $70 less. Speed Eng offers a 1 7/8" set too. I don't know how they fit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/psm-70-2256

I am using home made mounts on my 6.0 with a pickup pan bolted to a 2004R. Engine sits as low as possible (tie rods are about 1/4" from the bottom of the pan when turning) and the engine is as far ahead as the stock trans mount allows. No notching of the AC box or cross member has been done.

I put the passenger header in through the top without the starter. Drivers side went in through the bottom. It wont go in the top. To get the header in through the bottom you have to bend the flange where the firewall and floor meets. It barely fits but it does.


The flash screwed up here but the drivers side points a bit towards the frame. Collector hits the column shift to trans linkage preventing the header from bolting on straight. If you don't run that link it goes it without issue. Doesn't hit the crossmember, frame or anything. Looks like it was made for it.


They don't sit down too far either.




Drivers side generally OK



Passenger side does need mods, #4 primary hits the upper control arm and frame. If you wanted to hammer them they would fit.




Otherwise they are a really good starter kit.

In review
Pacesetter #70-2256 or Speed Engineering (cant find the part #)
Good- Cheap, fit damn near perfect.
Bad- Drivers header hits the trans shift linkage. Passenger header primary #4 hits the UCA and frame. Dents would clear.

Coming up I will show the mods I do to make them fit without dents.
 
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They look like they fit pretty good considering they were not designed for that application, it looks like about the same clearance issues as BBC header for A body in our cars.
 
Did you see the video Hotrod magazine did with the dyno testing with dented headers? They didn't lose power after beating the hell out of them sledgehammers.
I have a set of 1 1/2" Hedmans and was thinking about stepping up to 1 3/4" but after watching that I've decided it's not worth the money. I figure it will just have more torque.
 
Certainly can bash them with a hammer, but I have all the right equipment to do it right so why not. Won't take that long and I plan to make the car kinda nice so I'd rather not bash them.
 
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Certainly can bash them with a hammer, but I have all the right equipment to do it right so why not. Won't take that long and I plan to make the car kinda nice so I'd rather not bash them.
Doing it right would have been to buy the headers that were made to fit the swap to begin with, the Hookers or the Heddmans. You can do what you want. I just made a suggestion, I didn't know if you thought you would lose power or what. I'm not slamming you for buying the cheap ones either. I am probably going to buy the TSP stainless headers. I will see what I need to do once I get them. I have read they fit with no issues, you just get that drivers side pointing out.
 
Couple more updates

Cut the drivers header 8 degrees to go straight, looks good. The shifter to column link hits in 3, 2, and 1st gear. Im just going to Z bracket the link over 1/2" or so and flip the link to the other side of the arm.



I didn't end up cutting the passenger side. I test fit it again and decided I didn't need to. It contacted the UCA mount so I trimmed the corner a bit. Aftermarket UCA's would clear. I also hammered on the tube by the frame a bit. Mostly just had to make clearance for where the LCA mount is welded to the frame like 1/4". The header does rest on the frame still. However it is very minor. I will be drilling the trans crossmember mount tab out and sliding the back of the trans over maybe 1/2" tops and I'll gain enough clearance.


Overall they need modifications but if you have a saw (even a hacksaw or sawzall would do) a welder, grinder, and hammer they fit quite nicely for just a low price.
 
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Did you check your clearance with a header gasket in place?
 
Thanks for this! I will be running the same headers in my swap very soon.
 
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