If it's not one thing...

[Derision]

So a couple of days back, the GP started having some issues again. Starts fine, runs fine, but when accelerating from a stop, it hesitates, chokes, stutters, all sorts of thing. Very choppy acceleration, the engine cuts out at times... awful. Once you're moving, it's fine. And when idling, it's fine... except that every so often, with no apparent regularity, the engine will occasionally shudder like someone just kicked it.

Talked to a bunch of people. Nobody has any real idea of what it is, but the two answers I hear the most are "wires" and "fuel filter". I didn't think it was the fuel filter, but my mechanic friends were all telling me, "No, really, I've seen it a thousand times," or "used to have a van that did that to me once, weirdest thing," or something like that.

And so... fine, I replaced the fuel filter. While I was there, I replaced most of the vacuum lines. No change. Replaced the wires. No change. Replaced the distributor cap and rotor. No change. Replaced the plugs. No change.

Suddenly, as I'm about to go to the auto parts store to get yet another bit to try, I realize that I have no heat. "What the hell now," I think and stop the car to check it out. Lo and behold... I'm a gallon and a half low on antifreeze. What the...? I checked it less than 24 hours ago!

Apparently, my radiator leaks. I have a giant puddle under my radiator wherever I go. This is, of course, the radiator that I had installed brand new. And who's 2-year warrantee expired five days ago.

HA!

"You gotta be kidding me," I mumbled after putting in a gallon and a half of antifreeze. I got in the car and started it up... the engine lurched to life and, once again, complained, hesitated and stuttered as I hit the gas.

And then, suddenly, there was another sound! A whining, whirring, squeak of a noise coming from the front of my engine, from the place where my water pump is. Because, you know, one thing can't go wrong all by itself. Everything has to go wrong with it!

So now I'm looking at a new radiator, a new water pump, and still trying to diagnose what the hell is wrong with the rest of the engine.

Sigh.

 

[megaladon6]

if you're doing say 30MPH and tromp on the gas does it have problems? or is it only off the stop? you may have a vac leak at the intake to head seal.
did the engine over heat or run hot at anytime?
if it's a mech/vac advance distributor, try this--with the engine running and a timing light handy, attach a vacuum pump to the distributor and make sure that when you pull vac the timing changes. also with the vac to the distributor disconnected and plugged rev the engine and make sure the timing changes.

 

[Uncletruck]

Also (once you get past your cooling system woes) check the carb's accelerator pump circuit. If it is weak or intermittent, it can give symptoms similar to what you are describing and is an easy repair with a carb kit.

-UT-

 

[Derision]

if you're doing say 30MPH and tromp on the gas does it have problems? or is it only off the stop? you may have a vac leak at the intake to head seal.

No, once I'm moving, I don't seem to have any problem with it. Even if I romp on it from a dead stop, it isn't bad... it's mainly when I give it between 1/4 and 2/3 throttle.

did the engine over heat or run hot at anytime?

Not that I am aware of. I don't have gauges and my TEMP idiot light doesn't light (bad connection; the bulb is fine -- if it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have none at all), so I don't have any way to really tell. As far as I can tell, no it hasn't. I have no signs of head gasket issues... I always check that first and foremost because I'm paranoid. Head gaskets are my mortal enemies.

if it's a mech/vac advance distributor, try this--with the engine running and a timing light handy, attach a vacuum pump to the distributor and make sure that when you pull vac the timing changes. also with the vac to the distributor disconnected and plugged rev the engine and make sure the timing changes.

I haven't got a timing light, but I'm planning to take it to a garage in the next couple of days to see if I can get it troubleshot.

Thanks.

 

[Derision]

Also (once you get past your cooling system woes) check the carb's accelerator pump circuit. If it is weak or intermittent, it can give symptoms similar to what you are describing and is an easy repair with a carb kit.

Can you give me an idea of how to go about this?

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I had a very similar problem when the main power wire to the starter from the battery came a little loose. The starter post is the main serial bus for the whole car and if it is loose, it will do all sorts of odd things. What was funny was that I had driven it 40,000 miles since I did the swap and had never had a problem. Then, it started doing it when I was on my way to take it to the drag strip for the first time, and got really bad when I got there. It took me over a week to find it because it was not something I would have thought to check, and the car is not my DD.

 

[Derision]

I had a very similar problem when the main power wire to the starter from the battery came a little loose. The starter post is the main serial bus for the whole car and if it is loose, it will do all sorts of odd things. What was funny was that I had driven it 40,000 miles since I did the swap and had never had a problem. Then, it started doing it when I was on my way to take it to the drag strip for the first time, and got really bad when I got there. It took me over a week to find it because it was not something I would have thought to check, and the car is not my DD.

I just replaced my battery somewhat recently. I'll have to check that out.

I've also... er... I've noticed the distributor making kind of a "chicka-chicka-chicka-chicka" noise, like there's a tiny man with a miniature chain gun hiding inside it. For the life of me, I can't remember if there is supposed to be some kind of noise coming from the distributor or not.

Eh, either way... first things first.

 

[81malibag]

So a couple of days back, the GP started having some issues again. Starts fine, runs fine, but when accelerating from a stop, it hesitates, chokes, stutters, all sorts of thing. Very choppy acceleration, the engine cuts out at times... awful. Once you're moving, it's fine. And when idling, it's fine... except that every so often, with no apparent regularity, the engine will occasionally shudder like someone just kicked it.

Talked to a bunch of people. Nobody has any real idea of what it is, but the two answers I hear the most are "wires" and "fuel filter". I didn't think it was the fuel filter, but my mechanic friends were all telling me, "No, really, I've seen it a thousand times," or "used to have a van that did that to me once, weirdest thing," or something like that.

And so... fine, I replaced the fuel filter. While I was there, I replaced most of the vacuum lines. No change. Replaced the wires. No change. Replaced the distributor cap and rotor. No change. Replaced the plugs. No change.

Suddenly, as I'm about to go to the auto parts store to get yet another bit to try, I realize that I have no heat. "What the hell now," I think and stop the car to check it out. Lo and behold... I'm a gallon and a half low on antifreeze. What the...? I checked it less than 24 hours ago!

Apparently, my radiator leaks. I have a giant puddle under my radiator wherever I go. This is, of course, the radiator that I had installed brand new. And who's 2-year warrantee expired five days ago.

HA!

"You gotta be kidding me," I mumbled after putting in a gallon and a half of antifreeze. I got in the car and started it up... the engine lurched to life and, once again, complained, hesitated and stuttered as I hit the gas.

And then, suddenly, there was another sound! A whining, whirring, squeak of a noise coming from the front of my engine, from the place where my water pump is. Because, you know, one thing can't go wrong all by itself. Everything has to go wrong with it!

So now I'm looking at a new radiator, a new water pump, and still trying to diagnose what the hell is wrong with the rest of the engine.

Sigh.

I'd say, either your accelerator pump linkage is misadjusted &/or your carb floats are set too low or improperly adjusted choke. Your coolant level isn't gonna make the engine stutter unless you have a vacuum operated choke thats hooked to a vacuum tree/ coolant temp sensor located on thermostat housing. Scroll down & read other message I post for adjustment specs. Thanks....

 

[81malibag]

RE: Adjustment specs

Accelerator Pump: Adjust screw on linkage so that it's just touching the arm that goes to diaphram(under fuel bowl). You don't want a gap, that will cause hesitation. If it's too tight, it'll cause flooding. Float Adjustment: With engine running at idle(500-700rpms) if possible. Step 1: remove sight plug on side of fuel bowl. Step 2: Loosen locknut on top of bowl. Step 3: Turn screw counterclockwise to raise float & clockwise to lower float. Step 4: Adjust float til fuel just trickles out at the bottom of the sight plug hole. Step 5: While holding float adjusting screw still, tighten locknut & install sight plug.( may have to shut off engine, because of vibration). If you can't figure out your choke adjustment, tie it open & start engine & let it warm up(will run rough til warm with choke wide open). Shut off engine, check adjustment on accelerator pump, re-start engine & check float adjustments. As for your coolant issues, only use gaskets. RTV is good for corners & crevices. Water pump bolts are around 25ft lbs. Make sure your T-Stat is installed properly(right side up & arrow pointing in line with upper hose & 180deg-195deg. Fill system to top of neck, start engine, turn heater knob to hot & blowing on floor & fan speed set to low. Let engine run til it's warmed up & T-Stat opens(coolant will drop rapidly in radiator) top off radiator & install cap. Let system build pressure & make sure both upper & lower hoses are hot(means system is circulating) .Take it on a test drive & check for leaks. Let engine cool down, fill overflow tank to full mark & you're done. F.Y.I. Heat will appear from heater when T-Stat opens. Good luck....

 

[81malibag]

RE: Ignition Timing

Disconnect vacuum line(vacuum equipped) & hook Mity Vac to port on distributor. Diaphram should move under vacuum, if not, replace it. Or, you can leave it disconnected, plug vacuum line & try setting your timing between 10-12 degree's til you get a new one. If it is an aftermarket distributor, you can get mechanical advance weight springs & adjust your's to your specs. For regular fuel(87-94 octane) your full advance will be about 36deg's at 3000rpm's. For Cam 2 is around 38deg's. Alcohol is about 40deg's. Good luck.....