Instrument panel light dimmer

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If it doesn't work right with the fuse out I wouldn't mess with the radio or ashtray. When the fuse is pulled that part of the circuit is eliminated.

Take a picture of the switch and the connector and post them, might see something there.

Also might try with the plug off the switch and the fuse removed test where the fuse plugs in, both sides. Is there 12V on either fuse socket terminal?
 
If it doesn't work right with the fuse out I wouldn't mess with the radio or ashtray. When the fuse is pulled that part of the circuit is eliminated.

Take a picture of the switch and the connector and post them, might see something there.

Also might try with the plug off the switch and the fuse removed test where the fuse plugs in, both sides. Is there 12V on either fuse socket terminal?
Pics 1985 OEM in the left. Standard in the middle and GM on the right
 

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Look at the picture of the switches the terminals are numbered. The green wire is supposed to be on two on yours it is on three. Also note three is permanently connected to the marker light output with that brass island so it is always +12V when the lights are on. Three is the same source that feeds the rheostat +12V.
HL SW.jpg
Arrow is number Two.

Try testing by hooking the connector up and put your meter lead into the number two opening to the switch male terminal. If it works as expected you need to move the terminal from three to two.

Wonder if it was built that way and no one ever noticed or perhaps cared.

Removing Type 56 terminal from housing. A tiny jewelers screwdriver works too.
 
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That was it! I tested before moving the terminal then moved it using an eyeglass flat screwdriver. Wow yeah I can tell you it has been that way since the late 80’s. I am the 3rd owner. Thank you
 
The Cheap LED bulbs I found on Amazon for a buck a piece work great and are dimmable. Big Thumbs up to ELCAM for spotting my rheostat issue with the connector being off by a tooth. Thank you!
 
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