Just Got A Cutlass Need Parts And Advice

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86cutlassrules

Greasemonkey
Dec 12, 2008
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I just bought a 86 Cutlass Supreme complete with rust from a guy I work with. The car is blue on blue, with a quarter vinyl top, cushy split bench and a 307. The 307 smokes a little so I'm looking to put a semi built 403 I have in the garage in it, has any body done this from what I heard its pretty much a direct fit? Also I heard some of these came with either a 700R4 or 200R4 trans how can I tell which I have? I'm a little worried about all the torque of the 403 shredding that little 200r4. I have rot in both doors is there any where I can get new doors? The drivers side is rotted half way up so there's no saving it, the passenger is rotted under the giant chrome trim. The passenger side door wont open because the lock is jammed does any one know how to fix that? I cant pull the lock up from the inside and I cant turn the key in the door, I don't really want to wreck the door panels because they are perfect but I have no Idea how to get to the latches. The hood doesn't spring up on its own when I pull the lever I have to push it up from underneath while someone holds the release. Oh and it blew a brake line when I left the parking lot so I backed it back in, does anyone sell a pre-bent line kit for this car? That's about all I can think of at the moment. I'm sure its enough for one post though hah. I appreciate any help I can get.
Thanks
Anthony
 
Sounds like a good project. Im sure the 403 is a direct bolt in for the 307, there are threads on here dealing with the details of the swap. Your car should have a 200-4R, I dont think the 700-r4 came in a G-body. The 200-4R can be built to handle a good amount of power. For the doors, junkyard or shop around. Several people here are looking for the same thing. As for the door not opening, i am sure you will have to pull the door panel. just be careful. Not sure about the hood or brakes, cause right now my car has neither.
 
yes it is a direct fit. Its what i have, and i love it.

Also, the 403 is notheing more then a 350 with much bigger pistons. If you bore the 403, dont go more then .040 over, or you will have overheating problems, and make sure your cooling system is up to par. Clean your block throughly, make sure it doesnt have crap it in cooling pasages.

Another thing youll want to think about is make sure that 403 can breath, they need lots of air flow, headers, dual exhaust at least 2.25", a good intake, and a 700 cfm or bigger carb. if you got that, you wont need much of a cam to make it run good.
 
The motor I have was in my 80 TA for a while, and it was a stock rebuild just a little shave on the heads, edelbrock cam, intake, some headers, a recurved distributor, and rejetted q jet. It made the Trans am move really well I figure if I shove some 4.10s in the cutlass it should really move and thanks to the overdrive it should still cruise nice on the highway. My friend parted out a 86 442 a few years ago and it had the 700r4 with the mult-ifit case, which was why I was curious is it possible someone just swapped that in along the way?
 
I would not recomend a 4.10, with that kind of tourqe, and the first gear in that trans, you will do nothing but spin the tires.

I have a th-350 trans and a 2.14 rear gear, and i still have a problem with wheel spin of the line, but once im hooked it a lil over geared in first, but i figure my 700r4 im about to rebuild will fix that.
 
To fix the hood latch, all you need is a few drops of motor oil poured on the mechanism. Operate the latch a few times and it should work. Lube again as needed. The TH2004R can be built to work just fine, and some people feel it's better than the TH 700 R4 for a number of reasons. As for the door, if you really can't get it open, I would find your replacement door, then use a cutoff wheel to open a hole in the outer skin. All you have to do after that is release the lock. Don't forget to transfer the lock cylinders from the old doors to the new ones.
 
If the 200-4r is not from a GN/Ttype/MCSS/442 then you will at minimum need a good shift kit & a cheap transmission cooler to help it survive. www.ckperformance.com has the best one I have found and sometimes puts it on sale for $99. Also with 4.10s you will spin although I would much rather feather it out of the hole then to put up with a 2.14. Ouch that would suck on anything but the interstate. No need for overdrive with one of those. If you add an air bag, control arms, and adjustable upper control arms plus maybe a posi & good tires you will have the traction to launch hard. But beware as then you will be pushing the 7.5 rear and the transmission.
 
I personaly like 3.73 gears with the 200-4R. Its a nice mix off acceleration and hiway.
 
I'd go even lower and use 3.23 gears. I love mine, and with all that torque, you really don't need any more. If it's a street car, you want a good compromise between acceleration, fuel economy and longevity. With a small ring gear diameter, the numerically lower gear is stronger since it has more contact area with the pinion gear.
 
When your about to take the engine out, blow up the 307 and take a video of it. We need some entertainment. 😀
 
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