Keep existing front sway bar or aftermarket?
- Thread starter Geo's66
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I'd like a set of 18x9 GTA rims, but I probably would not be able to afford them.
I pulled a front bar off a 1989 IROC Camaro. It must weight 30 pounds, but it cost about $10. The hardest part was shaving the urethane bushings down so they fit into the G-body shells. Then I stripped the threads in the frame rails when trying to mount the beast. But the bar itself required zero mods. I just wire brushed the scale and sanded the bar smooth and hit it with Chassis Black.
I like POR-15. Does require several coats, comes out really glossy, and needs a UV-proof top coat. But you can see the first coat actually turn flat when it reacts with the oxide or the fresh blasted steel. I recommend Metal Prep (or maybe it's Metal Ready) to treat the blasted steel before you paint. And be generous with the wire brush and compressed air to get all the sand out of the nooks and crannies.
Don't forget - set your end link length to be in mid-plane so nothing collides if you bottom out or let the light shine under your tires.
I pulled a front bar off a 1989 IROC Camaro. It must weight 30 pounds, but it cost about $10. The hardest part was shaving the urethane bushings down so they fit into the G-body shells. Then I stripped the threads in the frame rails when trying to mount the beast. But the bar itself required zero mods. I just wire brushed the scale and sanded the bar smooth and hit it with Chassis Black.
I like POR-15. Does require several coats, comes out really glossy, and needs a UV-proof top coat. But you can see the first coat actually turn flat when it reacts with the oxide or the fresh blasted steel. I recommend Metal Prep (or maybe it's Metal Ready) to treat the blasted steel before you paint. And be generous with the wire brush and compressed air to get all the sand out of the nooks and crannies.
Don't forget - set your end link length to be in mid-plane so nothing collides if you bottom out or let the light shine under your tires.
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New question- how do I remove this bar(?) from across the upper control arm? Also, in trying to grind the original rivets out, PAIN, I tried hitting it with the air chisel- made a mess- can this part be bought new? Thanks guys- the lower front control arms ha the bolts seize in their sleeves- that was most of the afternoon getting those out, geeze.
Drill them out. That is the easiest way to get the upper ball joints off. New ball joints will have nuts and bolts.
For my Regal I bought new Dorman upper control arms from Rockauto for under $60 a piece with bushings and balljoint already installed, saved me all of the hassle and time of blasting super rusty control arms and then rebuilding them
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1027362&jnid=2&jpid=0
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1027362&jnid=2&jpid=0
Also where do the GTA rims come onto play on all of this considering you said you were getting 15 X 8 vette rallyes?
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