Latest Find: Chevrolet 454

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83,heres how mine looks at almost the same angle as your first picture;

Theres no way you can get your hand on the bellhousing bolts in mine.
Next year I plan on getting rid of the heater box,looks like you have way more room than I do...
Guy
 
GuysMonteSS said:
83,heres how mine looks at almost the same angle as your first picture;

Theres no way you can get your hand on the bellhousing bolts in mine.
Next year I plan on getting rid of the heater box,looks like you have way more room than I do...
Guy
My box was the heater only box so its way different. I could reach under the box for the bolts along the side and then over the back of the engine for the top 2 bolts. Mine was going to require some work so instead I sold the box on ebay and went with the flat panel to mount my ignition box and remote starter solenoid to. I dont use the heat in it anyway so it served no purpose other than looking original - something I don't care about.
 
I am going to say everything is pretty tight on mine but it fits well, I used the same Moroso solid mounts on mine for added clearance.
The only interference was with the original AC case and since I am not a fan of the block off plates I decided to modify the back portion of a non AC heater case so I could retain the factory cowl rain gutter and give the engine compartment a more finished look .
I put a notch in the case for the passenger valve cover but you can't really tell it is there.
The brake booster on mine came factory with the smaller diameter dual diaphragm version which clears the engine and has no issue with me removing my large valve covers, the larger diameter flatter style may cause some issues.
There is not much clearance between the water pump and the dual fan set up either this will vary on your set up.
For the power steering I used a factory big block pump and brackets and had custom lines made to adapt to the older fittings but no clearance issues.
And obviously there will be the hood clearance issue also depending on your set up, my feeling is if you are going to put a big block in there then you might as well make the best use of possible power.
 
I've read up on the headers, looking at the hooker big block swap headers. Any experience? Can they be installed with the engine in?
 
Curlz said:
I've read up on the headers, looking at the hooker big block swap headers. Any experience? Can they be installed with the engine in?
I had to lift the engine up a little to fit the headers in but they laid right in. Do the modifications before the engine is in there though, I found that makes it much easier.
 
Curlz said:
I've read up on the headers, looking at the hooker big block swap headers. Any experience? Can they be installed with the engine in?

The Hooker Gbody big block headers fit well but they cost more as you already know, the only modification required is notching the upper engine mount if you keep the stock mounts, The set up uses slip tubes to make installation easier and will have one tube going over the frame rail on each side and will require a small notch in the fenderwell mostly for clearance from the heat.
You do install these with the engine in and install the starter after you get the main section of the passenger side in.
I recommend wrapping your starter with a heat shield, installing a remote starter solenoid and I would also run a remote oil filter set up to make your life easier doing an oil change.
 
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