lookin to do some upgrades on a sbc

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illregal82

Master Mechanic
Jul 4, 2006
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so this spring i blew a gasket not sure which one. i am about to have my motor pulled this weekend and i plan on spending about a grand on freshening it up . im looking to buy a new waterpump, pulleys, intake manifold, some high performace gaskets, radiator with electric fans, b&m shifter and a autometer tach . ill probably buy most the stuff off ebay . oh and i might buy a cam and i am definitley taking my heads some where and having a three angle valve job done ive been told thats wise money spent . any suggestions i was thinking of getting the edelbrock performer rpm intake and these 2 items on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=230146348472&rd=1&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=270138193012&rd=1&rd=1
 
i know a grand wont go that far but its good start . i dont know that much about engines all i know is there is a bunch of oil all over my garage floor and before i stopped driving it it smoked on the passanger side when stopped and leaked oil on the ground but still had all the same power . my freind was thinking oilpan or rear main sesal
 
rear main seal leaks are pretty common on sbc's
 
So are valve cover leaks that run down the back and side.

And the water pump seems to be a good buy. Its a LONG water pump which is what u need. I don't see where it states standard or reverse rotation, though. U def want standard rotation.

If u have a grand to spend, then what do u want out of it? Faster, look better, more reliable? Pulleys are cosmetic only, water pump is weight reduction mainly, but u also talk about a cam change. Narrow down what u want and it'll make it easier to get what u want. Me, I'd clean my stock pulleys and paint them to save money and put the dollars into engine performance.
 
yeah i agree, i just bead blasted my pulleys and repainted them and they look like new...i'd go for more performance parts also with a grand...bigger carb and a cam with some decent lift would be the first thing on my list and maybe some roller rockers
 
well the reason i wanted new pulleys is for some reason mine arent lining up perfect . the alternator is the worst . and if i buy a whole set that are the same i probably wont run in to that problem . i think
 
The cam you chose will depend on the compression ratio your engine has. If the engine has a low compression ratio, you would not want a cam with lots of duration and overlap as it would be down on power everywhere. If it is a low compression engine, I would suggest looking at the lobe separation angle as one of the most important factors in choosing a cam. Wider is better as it traps more cylinder pressure at lower RPM's. I used a Comp XE262 in my 355 with 9.5:1 compression and am very happy with it. It has a wide 114 degree LSA and makes tons of low end torque. It is not a cheap cam, I paid $175 with lifters if memory serves, but it is not an area to skimp on. For my $1,000, I would get that cam, a set of steel shim head gaskets, an Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM, a well tuned Quadrajet, Headers, and a free flowing exhaust. I got my Performer for $15 used, my carb for $30, and the exhaust cost me around $800 from the headers to the cat to the tailpipes. It can be done cheaper if not done smog legal. I would also look at the rear axle gearing, especially if it is worse than a 3.08. Get a 3.23 axle out of a V6 car with the high altitude axle and you will notice a lot better acceleration ( I paid $50 for mine).Going from the 2.41 axle with the 355 to a 3.23 was a night and day difference in my car. Skip the water pump and the pulleys as there will be no real performance difference for the amount of money spent. The radiator is also a waste unless you have an overheating problem. Mine cools just fine on a stock 3 row radiator pulled from a 307 Cutlass in the junkyard for $45.What engine do you have, what are it's specs and what do you plan to use the car for? These are the questions that should guide your purchases and that will help others advise you on your parts choices.

Depending on the heads you have, the 3 angle valve job may also not net you much for the money invested. If doing an intake already, consider a set of Vortec heads. They will only cost you a few hundered more than the valve job and hot tank at the machine shop, and they will kill your stock heads in terms of performance and fuel economy. The modern high swirl combustion chamber uses less fuel and is far more detonation resistant than your old castings. If your heads are from the 80's, just count them as worthless as most of them are terrible in terms of performance. You will need a Vortec intake manifold, a set of guided tip rockers, centerbolt valve covers and may need better valve springs depending on the lift of your cam. The XE262 would work well with these heads and their smaller chambers would help if you have low compression in your engine as is. All this assumes you have a 350 and not a 305. Parts choices change if you have the smaller engine. Oh, and run a set of shortie headers with 1 5/8 in primaries going into a 2 1/4 in dual exhaust and you should be happy.
 
i have a sbc 350 out of a 71 or 72 vette i was informed it was the original lt1 . i dont think i can do a compression test due to there is a bunch of oil under my car and there is no radiator in the car i put it in my buddys gp . the car was fast even with oil leak no difference the motor broke 3 stock g body rearends so a locker is a definant need with 3.73 i was thinking of getting that of ebay all i need is the locker itself that can take 3.73 gears and the gears . g bodys are 26 spline right ? the caprice i have here has edelbrock performer intake and a holley carb i have a edelbrock 650 and holley contender intake kinda silly . i think instead of buying a new intake were just gonna switch them so they match up . i pretty sure i have a mild cam i have a little lope during idle and my alt light flickers so i might wait on a cam . i have longtube headers and like 3.5 feet of exhaust i am going to buy 2 40 series flowmasters and do turndowns . yesterday my freinds freind said he had some brand new ceramic coated headers for a cutlass and only wants $100 for them . iam going to look at them tuesday i hope there longtube i dont want those generic blockhuggers that go straight down . and i found a turbo 350 with a shift kit and a 2400 stall for $150 i might get that but i have a 700r4 sitting in my garage but it has electric speedometer hook up i was planning on buying all new gauges eventually will that work with a electrial autometer speedometer? ill get the #s off my heads later i preety sure the #s on my block have been shaved off but my freind has a block identifier book and everything matched to the 70s lt1 its getting pulled out tomorrow so ill get some pics
 
What were you doing to the 7.5" rears???? A mild 350 won't hurt a 7.5" without some help from the driver.
 
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