Looking for a bolt in all aluminum radiator

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When matching hoses for an aftermarket radiator with larger outlets I usually look up hoses for early to mid 70's A body cars that came with the specific engine I am trying to match, since that was when you could still get an engine that was the same brand as your car.
 
The champion 3 core was marginal with my 8 to 1 403. I would try the Griffin Dominator without the trans cooler for the FBody, around $260. Two huge 1.25" cores. Ironicly the A/G body rad is way too wide for G body but will be perfect for my 70S down the road.

Does the f body griffin dominator bolt into a g body?
 
I also have a Champion 2 row in the 78 El camino, Runs 160 all day. Champion has the best return policy . The first rad from them was leaking from the petcock (I think). I contacted them through email as I was going to see if I could reseal it with tape or compound. They call me a hour and a half latter on a Saturday . He said we dont want you to mess with it, Ill send you out a new one Monday with a return for the leaking one.

All mail order stores should be this easy.


Doug
 
I also have a Champion 2 row in the 78 El camino, Runs 160 all day. Champion has the best return policy . The first rad from them was leaking from the petcock (I think). I contacted them through email as I was going to see if I could reseal it with tape or compound. They call me a hour and a half latter on a Saturday . He said we dont want you to mess with it, Ill send you out a new one Monday with a return for the leaking one.

All mail order stores should be this easy.


Doug
 
I have one I got off ebay. Engineered Cooling Products is who sold it. It is a 2 row with 1 inch tubes. It has the same inlet/outlet sizes as our factory radiators. Also has the petcock on the bottom of the driver side tank. Not sure if they are still on Ebay or not. It's not an "exact" fit, but it was like $180, so it didn't cost the $500+ you would pay for a Griffin or BeCool radiator.
 
I have a derpy Spectra Premium 115$ rad and it fits fine. Single core with plastic tanks. Worked for me. Only time car got above 190 is both times the belt flew off twice.
 
Well I just placed the order for an MC162 champion 4 row rad. It was $260 on ebay. 4-5/8" rows = 2 1/2" of tube surface to cool, I think it should work on my 10:1 403, just gotta wait until next week for it to come in. :/
 
Well I just placed the order for an MC162 champion 4 row rad. It was $260 on ebay. 4-5/8" rows = 2 1/2" of tube surface to cool, I think it should work on my 10:1 403, just gotta wait until next week for it to come in. :/
Hey man, if you don't mind posting how the 4 row works....I've been looking at getting the same one for my 87 cutlass with a 10 to 1 355sbc. I have a northern brand aluminum unit now that i never had an issue on cooling, but being i switched to a bolt on glass hood the rad cap is hitting significantly causing the hood to not close! I don't wanna notch a brand new hood and would rather swap the rad since mine is like 12 years old or so. Thanks in advance,
scott.
 
Will do. Up in the air if I'm using this for my break-in, or if I'm swapping it in later, gotta see if I'm ready to break in the motor before the rad comes in! But it'll go in as soon as it gets here.
 
I take it it's a flat tappet - make sure you prime the oil system before you fire it and get those R's up ASAP. if you have a performance cam leave the center spring out and don't forget the zinc - I'm sure you already that covered.
 
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