Looking for GM anti-seize for O2 sensors, etc.?

69hurstolds

Geezer
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Jan 2, 2006
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Just an FYI for folks that are needing anti-seize for stuff. I thought I might have posted something about this before, but I was looking at O2 sensor info and ran across the lubrication part of it. Anyway...

O2 sensors from GM come with a dry lubricant embedded with glass beads. The idea is that eventually, the lubricant burns away leaving the glass beads to make it easier to get the sensor out of the manifold if the time comes. But if you're inspecting and remove it, what to put back on it? ( put it on threads only and SPARINGLY. Don't contaminate the sensor head) Main thing is, DON'T clean off any stuff on the threads of a new O2 sensor if it's on there, and if it comes with a pack of lube (some do) use that, or your favorite anti-seize that's safe for your application.

The GM part number they originally listed for this (5613695) is has been superseded all the way to its current number of 88862477. Don't know what ever happened to that very early stuff. Probably wouldn't want it anyway as some of the glass bead original junk has likely dried up.

But don't bother with it from GM. They want way more for the same stuff you can get at most industrial supply places. It's Bostik Never-Seez. No lie. They don't even bother to repackage it. Just comes in the regular Bostik can. Weird thing is, if you look up the number, it shows Nickel based in some places, and regular grade copper based in others. I'm not sure which one you're getting. Used to be the nickel based.

Personally, if you're stock, any copper based stuff should work, like Permatex copper, etc. Doesn't mess with cat converters at all, and great for cast iron. HOWEVER, do not use it on stainless. Not a good mix. It can eventually weaken stainless to the point of cracking it. I know copper stuff was taboo for the nuclear plant piping guys when I worked for Florida Power Unit 3. They used nickel based stuff. Interestingly, ACDelco had one of the superseded part numbers previously (12371386) that was nickel based. Bostik makes a nickel grade as well, plus some stuff for stainless, too. But so does Loctite, under p/n 235028 (LB 771).

Good luck. We're all counting on you.
 
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CopperNick

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Feb 20, 2018
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Very Interesting. "I use that stuff on most everything", Never Seize, that is. Usually it is the grey/silver colored variety, which likely means it is the Nickel version that you've described.

Did run into some blowback from a few auto mechanics who belonged to the au naturel school of fastener application. This does not pertain to the sensors being mentioned but their belief was that bolts and screws ought to be put into place totally dry and free from antirust coatings of any kind. The theory for this is that rust forms naturally and they perceived it as being nature's locktite.

Speaking only, solely, and just for myself. I LIKE being able to extract bolts and screws without having go 10 rounds with the fastener so I will apply a small amount of "Never Sleeze" to the threads of an inbound bolt and then be sure to check the tight during a nut and bolt inspection session.

Have not had much reason to employ the Copper Anti-Seize. Only things I have encountered that demanded copper were certain types of head gaskets and Permatex works great for that.


Nick
 
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melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
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Very Interesting. "I use that stuff on most everything", Never Seize, that is. Usually it is the grey/silver colored variety, which likely means it is the Nickel version that you've described.

Did run into some blowback from a few auto mechanics who belonged to the au naturel school of fastener application. This does not pertain to the sensors being mentioned but their belief was that bolts and screws ought to be put into place totally dry and free from antirust coatings of any kind. The theory for this is that rust forms naturally and they perceived it as being nature's locktite.

Speaking only, solely, and just for myself. I LIKE being able to extract bolts and screws without having go 10 rounds with the fastener so I will apply a small amount of "Never Sleeze" to the threads of an inbound bolt and then be sure to check the tight during a nut and bolt inspection session.

Have not had much reason to employ the Copper Anti-Seize. Only things I have encountered that demanded copper were certain types of head gaskets and Permatex works great for that.


Nick
everyone's more than entitled to their opinion but when it comes to disimlar metals and/or stainless my money's on the anti seize.hands down.the feeling removing or installing a fastener and having it stop half way is just about one of the worst feelings going.there's more salt on the roads here than i'm happy about so i'm not shy with it when reassembling something that sees the road year 'round
 
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Bonnewagon

Lost in the Labyrinth
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Sep 18, 2009
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Silver-grey anti-seize. Comes in many brands. I happened to get a 5 gallon bucket from a neighbor that was a machinist for the place that printed MAD magazine. It was made in Norway. Super great stuff. I use it on anything even remotely connected with water and exhaust. Especially spark plug threads that go into aluminum heads, and O2 sensors. When I re-piped the near boiler piping on my steam boiler to make a two-pipe drop header, I used it instead of thread dope. I learned that the seal is determined by the pipe threads jamming correctly. The anti-seize not only lubricated the threads properly to accomplish a tight seal, but will allow me to take them apart if need be. NO LEAKS!
 
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Built6spdMCSS

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Jun 15, 2012
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I had a troop when I was in that wouldn't cut his hair. I put like a dime size glob in the palm of my hand and made sure it ended up on the top of his head.

Yea that hair got cut. 🤣
 
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