Lt1 Swap in 83 cutlass completed now to rebuild

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Major_Bill

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 8, 2010
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I ve completed my swap in my Cutlass it ran close to perfect for a little over two weeks when my fans failed and the car over heated . Now I have a rod knocking, the oil pressure is till above 40 psi . there is no water present in the oil so thats a good sign so now I've got to rebuild the Lt1 I would like to upgrade the cast iron Lt1 if the crank salvagable I want to make a relaibe , drivability car with good horspower so I'm open to ideas for this rebuild . Im planning on keping the cast iron heas and haveing them reworked maybe heavier springs, for bigger lift cam and if possible a tuner for my pcm. I need some facts on cams, that would work best for me anything would be apprecaited.
 
Same as any other SBC/engine build....you need to figure out the total package and goal for car, then select cam accordingly. Anything else is just a shot in the dark.

Iron heads are a good choice, they are proven to flow better than the aluminum heads, the real killer on a stock setup is that the iron head engines all have the 4.3 litre L99 cam in them, as opposed to the "real" LT1 cam.
 
So... Could I put the "real Lt1 cam in my stock setup like the cam from a camaro . My gear ratio is 4:10 AND 700R TRANS WITH A 2500 STALL WOULD THAT WORK WITH MY SETUP
 
You overheated it once and it is toast? I overheated my 403 Olds a dozen times( a few very bad) and oil pressure got less and less but no knocking. I blew a hose, had a bad new high flow thermostat, shitty rad etc. My crank was wasted, when I rebuilt it. How much did your oil pressure drop, any? Get the LT1 Hot cam, may as well upgrade while it is out.
 
Yes, you could put the Camaro or Corvette cam in, or even the LT4 hotcam, but there are better choices out there for the money the hotcam costs. Neither of those would make a LOT of difference, some, but not a lot.

LT1s are very sensitive to oiling issues, as they run a very tight rod bearing clearance. MANY die early from bearing issues, including that one over there--------->
 
The GM LT4 hotcam is a waste of money. There are much better cam options out there. My personal favorite is the CC503 cam. The difference between the stock cams is that the b-body(iron head) cam is a low-end torque oriented cam, and the a-body(alum head) cam is more top-end horsepower oriented.
 
so what cam should i go with is the real questionbut what else would i have to do computer tune , heavy duty springs on my cast iron head . im planning on going with toatl seal rings what else could i do for bearing and oiling issue how good is cc503 cam
 
Ribbedroof said:
Same as any other SBC/engine build....you need to figure out the total package and goal for car, then select cam accordingly. Anything else is just a shot in the dark.

Iron heads are a good choice, they are proven to flow better than the aluminum heads, the real killer on a stock setup is that the iron head engines all have the 4.3 litre L99 cam in them, as opposed to the "real" LT1 cam.

Not so true about the 4.3 cam. The cam were intended for more TQ because the B-body car weighed so much more! On another note Comp efi line of cams are down right the most radical cams for these cars. Call them tell them what you wanting to do with the car and your setup and if they dont have a cam for you they will grind you one. They can also set you up with springsand retainers. Lt1 are a special breed. A cam porting heads and bowl hogging them, headers,and a tune can get you up towards the 400hp range. I have a cast head lt1 that I put in my 80 Malibu. I am in the process of building another LT1. All forged bottem. Scat crank,eagle H-beams, SRP 30 over pistons. Gonna spray 300 ontop of it! It should be a nice trip down the strip.
 
Major_Bill welcome to this forum ...I have an LT1 cutlass 84 ,
Id like to know how did you convert your wiring harness ? yourself or some painless or equivalent ?


As for the cam, I went comp cam CC503 in mine love the torque curve and the range of it ! I dont regret my choice ,
I have a 3000 T/C and 3:73 gears ....
I`m still carburated for now !
 
BIG DAN,

I read alot of forums that u wrote before i decided to do my LT1 swap. I can not take credit for the harness it was made for me really cheap and complet with plug and play and every thing labled right here in Arkansas, Injection Technologies . I took my old harness to him and he made a new harness in less than 3 day it was even heat shrinked and he also made my O2 sensor wires longer and left vss a just in case i wanted toook take out my 700 R 4 and put in an 4l60 E i was very pleased for what i paid just a little 0ver $500 and he help me on a mechanical issue with my opti spark and the correct way to run the vacumm lines that way Im not retarding the opti
 
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