The harness is not the only thing that you would have to swap in or create from scratch. The regulators that move the windows are so different enough from manual to power that you have to remove the manual units entirely and swap in the power versions. BE CAREFULL!! Those regulators are spring loaded and if you mess with them the spring can discharge and do some serious damage. (Story for another time) The power version is worse because it is the motor that works with that spring. If you can temporarily freeze the arms or the sector gear when you are doing the install, do it. The other thing is that the driver's harness operates both doors, so there is wiring that runs from the driver's side, through the A pillar, under and through the dash, back out the other A pillar, and onward to the passenger's side. Getting the wiring into the A pillars is a downright nuisance. Ol' Job hisself would be hard put for enough patience to get them stuffed into position. The other thing is power to that harness. Old school versions were more or less direct drive through a fuse on the fuse block. New vehicles tend to use relays as they put less stress on the wiring circuitry as a whole. You can get back to Job though, in terms of patience, because creating a circuit using a relay can be a real pain to set up and install. I use them and like them, particularly for older vehicles where the wires and circuits are victims of age and decay, especially the ignition circuit. Move the key switch out of being in line with the solenoid and use it to actuate the relay instead. Relay feeds direct battery power to the starter; makes cranking a lot easier and generates less heat in the wires. Have not mentioned the power door locks as they are a circuit unto themselves and also require specific latches and switches (and wiring!!)
Nick