my 80 cutlass build (2-24-11 update)

[viera]

I'm not build a drag car or anything. my goal is to build my 350 around 350-400hp just to cruise around town with my a/c on down here in Fl.

That's why I asked what sort of ET's/mph you're looking to run, because many don't realize you don't need as much horsepower as one might think to run what they want to run. 350-400 net HP is easily 12 second car territory. Is that what you're really looking to run? If so, doing so with a 350 can be done but some compromising in streetability will need to be made, and it doesn't sound likr that's what you want.

So what are you actually looking to run at the track? It seems like you're just looking for a fun 14 second cruiser. In that case it can easily be done with about 250-270 HP and decent gearing.

yes, I'm looking to build a cruiser something I can drive the weeken but not a DD. what r ur suggestions? cuz I'm new to the v8 world. so far I have what u saw on the pics. I want to go .30 over with a comp cam valve train and comp cam 270h cam. also i like to take the transmission to a local shop and have them put a shift kit and upgrade the converter too.

 

[DoubleV]

yes, I'm looking to build a cruiser something I can drive the weeken but not a DD. what r ur suggestions?

You still need to tell us what sort of performance you're looking to achieve before anyone can give you any practical advice. The best way to inform us what you want is to give us some track ET's/mph as I feel horsepower numbers don't really mean much.

We need to know what gears,converter, and transmission you're planning on running too. This info is very important.

I can see you're planning on using the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. That's a good intake as long as your build can take advantage of it's better mid/upper end flow. I also see you'll be using a 600 CFM Edelbrock carb. I think that carb is too small for a 355 and personally think Edelbrock carbs can't hold a candle to a good Q-jet. That air filter is also a fire hazard and will restrict flow. There are much better cams ( more power/better milage and response/smoother idle ) than the Comp 270H too...especially for a cruiser. Bullet and Lunati make some of the best cams for Olds ( so I've been told by many of the pro Olds guys ).

Anyway, please tell us your desired ET's and what gears/stall/transmission you'll be running. Also tell us what kind of driving characteristics you want to have, e.g. how much cam lope, milage, throttle response, RPM range, octane...pretty much anything you think we'll need to know to help us select the right parts you're gonna need.

P.S. What's your budget? This is probably the most important question of them all!

 

[viera]

yes, I'm looking to build a cruiser something I can drive the weeken but not a DD. what r ur suggestions?

You still need to tell us what sort of performance you're looking to achieve before anyone can give you any practical advice. The best way to inform us what you want is to give us some track ET's/mph as I feel horsepower numbers don't really mean much.

We need to know what gears,converter, and transmission you're planning on running too. This info is very important.

I can see you're planning on using the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. That's a good intake as long as your build can take advantage of it's better mid/upper end flow. I also see you'll be using a 600 CFM Edelbrock carb. I think that carb is too small for a 355 and personally think Edelbrock carbs can't hold a candle to a good Q-jet. That air filter is also a fire hazard and will restrict flow. There are much better cams ( more power/better milage and response/smoother idle ) than the Comp 270H too...especially for a cruiser. Bullet and Lunati make some of the best cams for Olds ( so I've been told by many of the pro Olds guys ).

Anyway, please tell us your desired ET's and what gears/stall/transmission you'll be running. Also tell us what kind of driving characteristics you want to have, e.g. how much cam lope, milage, throttle response, RPM range, octane...pretty much anything you think we'll need to know to help us select the right parts you're gonna need.

P.S. What's your budget? This is probably the most important question of them all!

i really dont know what ET i want, because i wasnt planing on building the car on a ET time. i guess that something else i have to figure out before i start the buying parts. my buget for the motor is around 1500-2000 dollars

 

[anthonychacon80]

It sounds like you are trying to do what I did for my Cutlass. I went with a SBC 350 though because parts are cheaper and more common...

1. What you are doing with the bottom end rebuilt (go with stock parts and pistons)is good. The fact you are boring over will add the power and torque you are looking for. You are not looking for a stroker or crazy pistons etc.

2. heads head heads. Spend a little more here. Get the nicest used heads you can find and get them professionally rebuilt.Use some quality head gaskets that are thing to add more compression. Consult on what size heads, what year, etc are best. I went with cast iron Vortecs on my SBC because off the shelf they are just about a efficient as possible. I am not sure what and Olds 350 head goes for but if you can get some used ones, a good shop can pocket port them slightly, rebuild them and then you can use what you saved and get some nice rocker arms and lifters/cam. You don't need to go crazy in this area since you want a nice street rod. Maybe go with "off the shelf" cam, rockers, lifters, push rods. Remember, you want to drive it around town, and 87 Octane is like $4 now. So you want to keep compression low. I am guessing under 10:1? I recommend going with All edelbrock products. Sure, its common and simple, but the parts work together well and it takes a lot of guess work out. The one thing you might change up is get a Q-Jet if you can afford a rebuilt one, it will make the ride smooth, good response at stop signs, and good MPG. Get the cam, lifters and rods and manifold from edelbrock and be sure they are all "off idle" in their power band. Im guessing if you are like me, you want to feel "fast" but still be under the speed limit in your city streets right? Whats the point of having all you HP and torque way up high where the only time you feel it is when getting on the freeway?

I used Magnum rockers from Comp Cams for my rockers. If you are eliminating EGR your options on carbs and manifold more than double. (check Florida laws)

3. Exhaust. Go with something off the shelf here too. A basic set of headers from hooker or even generics form Jegs or Summit will be MORE than adequate. Depending on Florida laws you might be able to eliminate the A.I.R injectors AND the Cat.Converter. You will be killing the O-Zone though, so no bitching about global warming!

4. Gears. What you already have might be fine. BUT if your rear gear ratio is under 3.08 than consiter 3.08 or higher. i have a 3.42 and its wicked mean on the streets, but evil on the highway. something in between will make your car "feel" faster on city streets. The higher you go the worse your MPG. If you are lucky enough to have an Overdrive transmission already you can pretty much just change your rear gear and be all good to go. Since you are keeping your HP and Torque under 450 (possibly 280-350) you wont be worried that much about destroying a weaker transmission to quickly.

edit: I remember my 3.8 V6 had 2:41 gears. Just thee fact it had such LOW gears made it pretty fast off starts at stop lights, of course NO top end. So you might consider just keeping the stock gears in your rear if they are low, and then maybe just spend your money on the engine.