My camshaft is robbing me !

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Im using steel roller tip rockers. I havent noticed any loss of power and WONT! Hopefully, Im not going down the same road as you did buddy.

I'll adjust the valves again tomorrow after I pick up the new carb. Ill get all of this stuff setup and let you guys know how it goes.

Also is the power steering in any way connected to the engine vacuum?
Thanks
 
It's not really connected to it in anyway, but any forms of loss I think would show up most at when the engine is loaded down (P/S, A/C). That's probably why it is doing that. Hopefully it's just the valves aren't adjusted all the way. I know some parts stores have a little thing you place on top of the rockers so they don't splash oil everywhere while you are doing it, but I have adjusted stamped rockers without a valve cover on it and didn't have any problems with oil (that was on a straight 6 though :lol: )
 
Those clips have a habit of flying off the rockers. Get some valve covers and the cut a square hole in the top. I've seen where someone has just used a holesaw and made the holes big enough to get a socket in the hole to get at the nuts..
 
That is a good idea if I didn't love my old black Goodwrench 350 valve covers I would do that 8)
 
Ok. I picked up a Edelbrock750, got everything set on it. I changed the check valve at the booster. New plugs. I adjusted the valves with the engine running today.WHAT A DAMN MESS. NOTHING BUT SMOKE! I also got the timing at 10 degrees initial. Its good. Idle is 1000rpm and drop it in gear and it idles very lumpy at about 4-500rpm but it hasnt stalled yet. The brake pedal is a little softer. Ive just been playing with it in my yard today. I feel good about the adjustments Ive made. Im just waiting for my canister, should be here tomorrow. The vac is still low at about 11-12 pounds.
 
It seems like you are doing a lot of mods at the same time. Are you doing all of this yourself, or is a shop doing some of the work? I'm not trying to be critical, but you don't seem to have a lot of hands on experience. You might want to check your cam timing, if it's retarded, it will give you all of the trouble you described. If you put a new timing chain on when you did the cam, did you degree the cam? When I built small block Chev motors for my dirt race cars, I found that even a new chain would stretch to the point where it would retard the cam by an average of 3 degrees. Used to put in a 4 degree advance bushing to make sure we had zero or 1 degree advance after chain stretch. Just something to think about. ........mickey-d :lol:
 
Im doing everything myself. I learn as I go dude. Im tired of paying people to work on my cars and I just watch and wait. I read up on it and if I know someone who's done it, ill listen. Im 100% hands on. I want to know that any problems and success of anything I do is because I did it.

No, I didnt degree the cam and I added a gear drive so I dont know too much about those stretching. Anyway, I hooked up my vacuum res. canister and my power brakes are way better. Its running good so far, a few more adjustments and I'll be back on the road.
 
I know the feeling of doing everything yourself. I just finished my 350 sbc & 700r-4 trans install...now she's up and running, sounds good, looks good, and can't wipe the grin off my face knowing I did everything myself minus the original machining to the block. As far as the camshaft degree, call your manufacturer. I know now that most comp cams are cut at 4 degrees. A little research goes a long way in my book. This was only my 3rd engine build and my 1st trans build, but I'm also anal as **** lol. Took me about 2 years to do everything including getting funds up when I ran out. Besides hooking my A/C back up everything is done and perfect. I also love when people ask why my check engine light is on...I laugh and tell them b/c it's not there anymore!

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One other tip, most guys I know barely use timing lights. They adjust timing till you get to max vacuum, then drop back about 2 lbs. Some like to do it this way, some don't. I used both on mine.
 
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