Alright, looking for some advice. I am aiming to have a nice low 12 second street car. Honestly, don't know how often it will go to the track. Mainly will be for cruisin, car shows, and nice summer days.... but it will get tracked for sure..... my question is, before I worry about dropping in a 12 second motor. What all do I need to do to my car so it can safely handle That. Like what all is mandatory lol. I know I'm gonna need a posi for sure. But what else should I get/strengthen before I worry about a motor. Because I wanna b able to just drop the motor in and go....I know plenty of you can speak from experience. Got another question, but ill save that for later.
My mission to run low 12s.
- Thread starter dlo253
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Well to run low 12's there is not much you need to do to car. I would recommend a driveshaft loop,axles and maybe some rear control arms to help with traction. You really dont need any upgrades as far as frame or safety untill you go in the 11's. At atco speedway once you go 11.50 is when you need a cage and safety equip upgrades. You can safely go high 11's if you want with the car in its stock form with just an axle upgrade. Me and a buddy have been pushing are gbody cars to 11.54-11-75 with just rear syspension done. If you need a Parts recommendation on a motor combo i have a proven 12.4 combo also that combo has went 12.0 three motor built alike all ran in that et.
Didnt think there would be much, just wanted to verify. Yeah, I plan on finding a rear end, may just get a 7.5 posi carrier until i can afford something better. Yeah I would like to stay away from doing a cage, want the backseat to be easily accessible. What's a good name for axles?
And sure, lets hear that setup....Right now, it has a 350 in it, believe it is pretty much stock besides performer rpm intake and edelbrock carb (came with car), needs valve guides. I also have a 327 sitting in my garage that i can have. Either way itll be a full teardown rebuild, but id like to keep stock bottom end if possible.
And sure, lets hear that setup....Right now, it has a 350 in it, believe it is pretty much stock besides performer rpm intake and edelbrock carb (came with car), needs valve guides. I also have a 327 sitting in my garage that i can have. Either way itll be a full teardown rebuild, but id like to keep stock bottom end if possible.
Moser or strange or even superior axles are good.
All three motors had the same bottom end just different heads.
Bottom end was cheap
350 .030 over
Speed pro 345np pistons
Stock crank and rods
Comp cam 292h cam 501/501 lift
Heads/ et with heads
Chevy bowtie Angle plug heads 180cc 12.43
Sportsman 2. 12.40
brodix IK 180 12.02
These motors where built with nothing special and have lasted for yrs actually one has about 10yrs of out right abuse. The other 2 have around 5yrs.
All three motors had the same bottom end just different heads.
Bottom end was cheap
350 .030 over
Speed pro 345np pistons
Stock crank and rods
Comp cam 292h cam 501/501 lift
Heads/ et with heads
Chevy bowtie Angle plug heads 180cc 12.43
Sportsman 2. 12.40
brodix IK 180 12.02
These motors where built with nothing special and have lasted for yrs actually one has about 10yrs of out right abuse. The other 2 have around 5yrs.
I am in the 12 second range right now with my baby..Few weeks ago I ran a 12.47 @ 109 mph. I have stock suspension with the exception to the rear end🙂 I have a 12 bolt rear from a '69 Checelle with 4.10 gears, UMI Perfropmance 12 bolt swap kit...I have cargo coils in the rear and the front springs are prolly as old as the car is. I also have a driveshaft loop as it's needed for my speed. Anything faster then 11.40 nand you need a cage.....Then again, that 12 bolt rear didn't getr me there, the 10 bolt would do the same as well...Nect year I'm going with Moroso trick springs on all 4 crns and 90/10 shocks in the front and 60/40 rears, this should help out a bunch!!
My motor is a sbc that is bored/stroked to 388 ci with 10.1 pump friendly compression....Dart pro-1 200 cc alum. heads with the eddy air gap intake, performer rpm (488-510 lift) cam and a holley 750 dp. I have a 700-r4 transmission with a 3200 converter...MInd you my car weighs 3300 lbs and with me in it were at 3550 or so!!! I drive my car to the track and then drive it home....But I gotta tell you that you won't be happy...Once you get into the 12's, your gonna want the 11's 🙂
My motor is a sbc that is bored/stroked to 388 ci with 10.1 pump friendly compression....Dart pro-1 200 cc alum. heads with the eddy air gap intake, performer rpm (488-510 lift) cam and a holley 750 dp. I have a 700-r4 transmission with a 3200 converter...MInd you my car weighs 3300 lbs and with me in it were at 3550 or so!!! I drive my car to the track and then drive it home....But I gotta tell you that you won't be happy...Once you get into the 12's, your gonna want the 11's 🙂
Right on man. Yeah, I actually have this Dana 60 sitting in the garage, but im not sure what the deal is with it. Suppose I better ask my dad, may be worth using....Idk if its a posi tho? lol. Yeah I am really trying to stay away from a cage...At least this time around lol. I mean Im still young (21 in November) So I got time to tear her up and down haha. Figure this setup will be a good base and will be fun for a while...Never been down the track yet, dont want to until i got some more power though hahah. I would love a nice set of aluminum heads but I dont have that kind of cash, probably gonna be going with something stock and get work done to them. Yeah, I'm sure I'll wanna go faster, probly pretty quick after..But we'll worry about that when the time comes haha 😀
Oh on another note, browsing CL...are these any good or should I look for a nice 10 or 12 bolt..?
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/2620325717.html
Oh on another note, browsing CL...are these any good or should I look for a nice 10 or 12 bolt..?
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/2620325717.html
YOu oughta look for the 8.5 rear from the 442 cars and the Grand National/T-Type car as they are a direct bolt in....You would need the shaft cut 1" though I'm pretty sur, or grab a 10-12 bolt rear from a 66-72 A Body car, these will go in with lil modifications!!
Yeah if I get a whole unit it would probly be a 10 or 12 bolt. I'm gonna have to check out this Dana 60 though, and buy a posi unit for it. I believe it is slightly narrowed....
Another question, my current 350... previous owner said it had about 60k miles on it when I got it, I've put on about 1500. Runs great, always starts right up even after sitting for a while. It does puff out a little smoke When you start it (pretty sure it needs new valve guides).. what would it be worth? Idk what's In it, assuming stock internals. It also has an edelbrock performer rpm intake on it. I'm really trying to fund my big block build now. Changed my mind on doing another SBC lol.
Another question, my current 350... previous owner said it had about 60k miles on it when I got it, I've put on about 1500. Runs great, always starts right up even after sitting for a while. It does puff out a little smoke When you start it (pretty sure it needs new valve guides).. what would it be worth? Idk what's In it, assuming stock internals. It also has an edelbrock performer rpm intake on it. I'm really trying to fund my big block build now. Changed my mind on doing another SBC lol.
Sounds like valve seals not guides. Anyway for a running motor someone can hear run $300-500 i just fetched 400 on a running sbc. Cant hear it run $200-300.dlo253 said:
Going Big Block you should have no problem going strait through the 12's into mid 11's without doing a whole lot of engine mods.
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