Need a new radiator for my 87 442.

[DoubleV]

They are aluminum now from the factory

I know you didn't mean it in that way but the way you worded it makes it sound like G-Bodys are still being produced and they now come with aluminum radiators....

Remember, many of these cheap aftermarket radiators have less rows and less colling fins than your factory copper/brass radiator.

 

[Crd80BU]

I bought a stock aluminum rad for my car at autozone for 120. They are aluminum now from the factory

how did that rad work out

 

[truracer20]

I have a Champion 2 core in my 80 Cutlass, it fit just fine, I did trim all four rubber isolators but it took 5 minutes to do, honestly it would have mounted fine without trimming but trimming made it right. And I will rather spend 5 minutes to make a $170 radiator fit than to spend 3x that and probably have to do the same.
I have a single electric fan with FULL shroud and the engine(mild Chevy 350) runs TOO cool at times. In heavy traffic or hard runs the engine only gets barely above the fan turn on temp.
I'm extremely satisfied with it. No leaks, No quality issues, No problems.

 

[pmc03spike]

I have a Champion 2 core in my 80 Cutlass, it fit just fine, I did trim all four rubber isolators but it took 5 minutes to do, honestly it would have mounted fine without trimming but trimming made it right. And I will rather spend 5 minutes to make a $170 radiator fit than to spend 3x that and probably have to do the same.
I have a single electric fan with FULL shroud and the engine(mild Chevy 350) runs TOO cool at times. In heavy traffic or hard runs the engine only gets barely above the fan turn on temp.
I'm extremely satisfied with it. No leaks, No quality issues, No problems.

I see that alot of guys on here use that radiator. What's your flow for your fan? And what's your thermostat? I just gout a Griffin radiator and dual fan setup. A bit more than the champion. But it pretty much just drops in there. Needs a little fab work and longer hoses but I also have a BBO. So I'm just curious as to what you got for your cooling set up.

 

[oldsofb]

I didn't search for it on here, but has anybody tried the Spectra brand radiator used in the 85 350 Diesel Cutlass? It's brass 2 row (I think) with built in Trans and Oil coolers.

 

[Wayne Parrish]

I have a Spectra in my ElCamino and they are great radiators.They are aluminum with a plastic end tanks and Lifetime warranty. I use mine with a Lin. MkVIII fan with a DCC controller and have had great results for two years. I run a later model lightly built 305 and regularly let it sit and idle in 90 + temps and the gauge just sits there. Spectra makes great items and are built in Canada .Check them out

 

[Bweavy]

Plastic end tank radiators work well for low to mid HP engines. It is pretty much common sense. You get a radiator, good Fan, & a T-stat. it cools, it works. You don't need a $400 plus radiator. If you have ever seen a Plastic end tank blow off one a Dyno pull then you would say Ok maybe not the best idea. Seeing $10K plus in an engine $4k plus in a trans & watching a $100 radiator blow an end tank off...

I had a good freind Sam who runs 750 HP plus have a electric water pump failure. Bowed our end tanks but a hose finally blew , Not the radiator. No leaks.
We have had this rad out since 06 & had great reviews. But a stock or slightly modded cutlass does not need 1.

http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_revie ... iews_id=54

Suggestion buy a radiator for your HP needs & put the $ else where like a dual fan & a good stainless T-stat for the best cooling. Yes A vendor talking him self out of sales.

 

[oldsofb]

Suggestion buy a radiator for your HP needs & put the $ else where like a dual fan & a good stainless T-stat for the best cooling. Yes A vendor talking him self out of sales.

That's how you gain sales, by not pushing every single product in every post. I find it refreshing.

The Spectra I was referring to is all brass and 2 row with trans and oil coolers. All the major suppliers seem to have it. Here's the link to the Autozone page.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...N-ijuwlZ9pdak?itemIdentifier=758310_233208_0_

Hutch

 

[truracer20]

I have a Champion 2 core in my 80 Cutlass, it fit just fine, I did trim all four rubber isolators but it took 5 minutes to do, honestly it would have mounted fine without trimming but trimming made it right. And I will rather spend 5 minutes to make a $170 radiator fit than to spend 3x that and probably have to do the same.
I have a single electric fan with FULL shroud and the engine(mild Chevy 350) runs TOO cool at times. In heavy traffic or hard runs the engine only gets barely above the fan turn on temp.
I'm extremely satisfied with it. No leaks, No quality issues, No problems.

I see that alot of guys on here use that radiator. What's your flow for your fan? And what's your thermostat? I just gout a Griffin radiator and dual fan setup. A bit more than the champion. But it pretty much just drops in there. Needs a little fab work and longer hoses but I also have a BBO. So I'm just curious as to what you got for your cooling set up.

I'll say it once again the Champion IS A FACTORY FIT part. I could swap it into any unmodified Gbody just as quick as any GM factory part...
The fan is a 16" straight blade 2215 CFM. Fan thermostat, 195* on 185* off. Coolant thermostat, 170*. Considering going up to a 180* thermostat or possibly a 195*. During night time cruises the temp wants to sit just below the coolant thermostat temp, about 165*.

The Griffins are good. My reason for not going with them is the price add on for an automatic transmission cooler, $100 more. The material and labor costs don't justify the price

Lots of people use them for a reason.

As far as using a copper/brass rad, there is no way in this day and age I would purchase one. Aluminum is far superior.