Need Brake Help

[NoRest92]

Hey guys, here's my newest problem. I recently replaced my master cylinder and the two lines that connected to it. I bench bled the cylinder before installing it and just bled all the brakes. I did the usual bleeding starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working my way closer and bled for at least 10 pumps until there were no more bubbles.

Now my brakes suck. I practically have to put my foot to the floor to stop at a light. Why is this? Any advice or recommendations to fix it? Also, when bleeding my master cylinder was squealing the whole time, I don't know if that matters or not. My brake light is on inside the car, but I'm afraid to drive it somewhere to have the codes read.Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[G_Body_Enthusiast]

If the brake light is on, one side of the system is not working. The light comes on when the pressure is uneven on both sides, usually due to fluid loss or too much air in the system.

My suggestion is to rebleed the system. You probably made a goof in the process, it happens. Also, there is no code to be read, the brake light only comes on if pressure is uneven. No computer involved.

I have driven without the back brakes, I don't suggest it in stop and go traffic but the car can be driven. They're designed to work this way so you can take it somewhere and have it fixed in case a line or hose goes bad.

Also, if you are pumping the brakes, make sure someone can open and close the bleeders so no air gets sucked back into the system.

 

[NoRest92]

If the brake light is on, one side of the system is not working. The light comes on when the pressure is uneven on both sides, usually due to fluid loss or too much air in the system.

My suggestion is to rebleed the system. You probably made a goof in the process, it happens. Also, there is no code to be read, the brake light only comes on if pressure is uneven. No computer involved.

I have driven without the back brakes, I don't suggest it in stop and go traffic but the car can be driven. They're designed to work this way so you can take it somewhere and have it fixed in case a line or hose goes bad.

Also, if you are pumping the brakes, make sure someone can open and close the bleeders so no air gets sucked back into the system.

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Thanks for the help! I'll try re-bleeding the brakes. I had problems with the rears so maybe that's it. If by some chance I messed something up bench bleeding the master cylinder, would any excess air still be evacuated through normal bleeding? I had never bled one before and hope I did it right.

 

[kustomkyle]

You probably have the distribution block stuck. There is a ball/check valve in there that allows your front brakes to function if something happens to the rear or vice-versa.

I blew the main line coming out of the block to the rear hose on the driver's side. After repairing everything (which was a much more complicated process due to the design of these cars; read:CLIPS hold the wheel cylinders in!), no fluid would go to the rear wheels. Brake light stayed on through this whole process. After bleeding several times, the ball in the distribution block finally reset itself and fluid finally came out of the rear bleeders.