Put a fuel pressure gage to see if you are getting 4-7lbs. after the pump. Maybe anything from clogged in tank strainer to bad pump to fuel starvation etc etc. As for the donk wheels either raise it about a foot or get rid of the wheels.
I’m getting a bouncing needle 3 to 4 psiPut a fuel pressure gage to see if you are getting 4-7lbs. after the pump. Maybe anything from clogged in tank strainer to bad pump to fuel starvation etc etc. As for the donk wheels either raise it about a foot or get rid of the wheels.
At idle? Now watch it as you give it more accelerator, does it drop at all?I’m getting a bouncing needle 3 to 4 psi
So I checked it again today. First time I checked I told you 3 to 4 at idle. Today was 6. Then I drove it for about 5 min came home checked it and it was at 2. Then it turned off.At idle? Now watch it as you give it more accelerator, does it drop at all?
How would I check to see model number on brand.My two cents… Until you identify what distributors in the car you’re chasing your tail. As Clone TIE Pilot stated, the original equipment carburetor and distributor work together. When you remove one of those components the system no longer works as intended. Until you know what you have you’re wasting your time chasing wild leads
It shouldn't be up and down, that constantly.So I checked it again today. First time I checked I told you 3 to 4 at idle. Today was 6. Then I drove it for about 5 min came home checked it and it was at 2. Then it turned off.
I'm not an Olds guy, but the OE distributor would look like this, assuming the 5.0 in question is the Olds 307, not a Chevrolet 305
The harness that comes out of the base of the distributor ultimately connects to the ECM. If this is still in use, the aftermarket carburetor will be virtually impossible to work properly. There should be a number stamped into the housing somewhere, but can be difficult to see when installed.
One of the Olds guys would be better versed in how this system works in the later models, mine were earlier Chevrolets.
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