no brake lights

[beermonkey9417]

my car used to have a 3 on the tree w/overdrive and now its a floor shifter 3 speed. after i bought it the brakelights stopped working altogether and i replaced the fuze the bulbs and connected a loose ground which made my fuel gauge kinda work. but still nada. any suggestions?

 

[jerrycad472]

Check the switch on the Pedal Assembly, it could be out of adjustment or just not working.

 

[beermonkey9417]

i did try it. the switch is ment for cruise control but it shouldnt matter. i have a replacement and they both work fine. i had working tail lights before and then all of a sudden, bupkis. my signals and headlights work but thats it. i dont have backup lights because the car used to be 3-on-the-tree and now its a floor shifter. thats another post... anyway i have a chiltons and im trying to figger out the diagram. any other suggestions?

 

[megaladon6]

there may be 2 switches on the brake pedal. one for the lights an/or computer(lockup) one for cruise. if you have some weird setup there may be a pressure switch on the master cylinder/combination valve. if you have power through the fuse and continuity through the wires to the brake lights then it's the switch.

 

[SBCregal]

check the wiring harness that runs up the drivers side of the trunk. its a black plastic connector and the wires all seem to corrode and fall apart there. brake lights, reverse, turn signals and fuel gauge are all run through that connector.

 

[jerrycad472]

Yes there is a wire that connects to the front of the porportioning valve, that may be what sends the signal for the brake lights, I am not sure, but worth checking. The porportion valve is usually on the frame just below the master cylinder. The wire just snaps on. Maybe it was knocked loose.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Take your test light and back probe the connector on the brake light switch. pull it out so that it is in the on position and see if there is current at both wires on the connector that runs the brake lights. If not, it's bad. Remember that there are two connectors on the brake light switch: one is for the TCC and is unimportant in this discussion. The contacts in the switch are actually like a set of breaker points, and the switch works two ways: First, when the brake pedal is depressed, the contacts for the brake lights come together completeing the circuit. Second, the contacts for the TCC are driven apart, thus unlocking the torque converter. So, the brake light switch is normally open and the TCC switch is normally closed when in it's installed position.

 

[beermonkey9417]

well the car has no computers and i didnt see any wires from the brake booster or any thing. its just a switch attached to the brake pedal and a jumble-f*#k of wires. it actually looks like they put in an aftermarket wireing harnis, but this all i know, being an amature and all. if i had the time and money, id rent a garage and just take the whole thing apart and start from scratch. but no i got no time and very little money and i think its getting over my head. but im stubborn and i wont give up till it burns to the ground or i wreck it. sorry for that lil rant but now its fall and i only have till the end of next summer to get it outa my moms driveway and i have no other place to put it becides the street by my house. no garage or shelterd place to put it or work on it. poop... sooo im proll kust gonna switch out the brake light switch and test the connection thingy thats round by the rear driverside. i already tried filing all of the rus off and using the di-electric grease to keep water out but so far it didnt help. i did get one of those led light strips thatgo between the back bumper and the tailgate. same prob with them, hasards and signals work but still no brake lights. so i think i know what i need to mess around with but any other suggestions would be greatly apprecated.

 

[81_2dr_bu]

check this link might help http://www.maliburacing.com/wiring_diag ... pLight.jpg when the phto of schematic appears place mouse at rght corner of schematic for larger image i was looking at that schematic it appears off the 20 amp fuse an orange wire goes to the brake switch for manual trans then coming out the other side of brake switch is a white wire i would put a test light on the orange wire back probed with ignition on see if theres power there then press the switch in and probe the white wire see if test light lights its a start i can say my ride was a column auto shift and was converted to a floor shift it should only affect the reverse lights i had broken wiring near the left quater panel . if your fuel gauge is wacked out check the ground under the car theres a ground wire i think grounded near the drivers bumper area or mid section . another thing is do a visual inspection of wires running along the drivers rocker area under the carpet you could check the yellow and green wires in the trunk at the bulb housings with the brake pedal held down let us know what your results are if you try this

 

[beermonkey9417]

the link would help if my car was manual but i think i found tyhe problem. when i was switching out my rearend i founf the wires that go to the lights between the body and frame in the driverside rear wheel well. it was hel in place with, get this, a piece of leather cord! wtf!?? well imm gonna test the wires there when i get a chance and see if thats the problem. also since im at it i should check the switch and connections.im think9ing for the reverse lights i found a switch that can connect to the shifter frame and it has a ball berring instead of a button. its for the manual shifter but i can mount it on the shifter frame and have the shifter shaft hit it when i have it in reverse. i hope thatll werk. other wise m buing baha stile flood lights and mounting them under the back bumper and to a toggle switch in the dash heh.