no crank after new (refurbished steering column)

[johnnunez29]

Update! So the yellow wire was needed to ign post. Apparently it feeds the nss and
Something else. Nothing works without it. So I’m back to my main problem. Ecu gets no rpm. If I change the cam sensor to a brand new one it will work and read. But after a few days or runs, it’s done. No more reading rpm. Holley sent a cam less tune and it worked just fine. Switch back to cam and rpm stall. I know timing is correct and cam gear should be good because I’ve run the car perfectly several times.

 

[383_StealthRam]

Update! So the yellow wire was needed to ign post. Apparently it feeds the nss and
Something else. Nothing works without it. So I’m back to my main problem. Ecu gets no rpm. If I change the cam sensor to a brand new one it will work and read. But after a few days or runs, it’s done. No more reading rpm. Holley sent a cam less tune and it worked just fine. Switch back to cam and rpm stall. I know timing is correct and cam gear should be good because I’ve run the car perfectly several times.

Well that's great news, and I guess easy enough BUT to be honest a 12ga wire that is that critical for the starting of the car would do much better if it wasn't just a slide it spade connector to the fuse panel that can fall out anytime. You should seriously consider putting a proper FUSE BLOCK tap connector that has a positive lock into the fuse block imho. Something like these --> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500429

Repeated CAM sensor failures seems highly unusual unless you have some physical damage occurring maybe? Are you sure there isn't an issue with cam gear, cover etc. that is causing some physical interference, I would look real closely at failed sensor, and inside the cam sensor hole with borescope for any signs of damage.

 

[johnnunez29]

Well that's great news, and I guess easy enough BUT to be honest a 12ga wire that is that critical for the starting of the car would do much better if it wasn't just a slide it spade connector to the fuse panel that can fall out anytime. You should seriously consider putting a proper FUSE BLOCK tap connector that has a positive lock into the fuse block imho. Something like these --> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500429

Repeated CAM sensor failures seems highly unusual unless you have some physical damage occurring maybe? Are you sure there isn't an issue with cam gear, cover etc. that is causing some physical interference, I would look real closely at failed sensor, and inside the cam sensor hole with borescope for any signs of damage.

Those plastic pieces lock into that space? I’ll def look into that. This was a headache lol. And the cam sensor, man they are all perfect when they come out, nothing hitting it at all. And it runs great if I change out the cam sensor. I am thinking there’s an issue somewhere with voltage but unsure where to look. Cars been doing this for months! I was also told by Holley to try a grey 58x crank sensor (the new ones are black) but no one sells the grey ones.

 

[383_StealthRam]

Those plastic pieces lock into that space? I’ll def look into that. This was a headache lol. And the cam sensor, man they are all perfect when they come out, nothing hitting it at all. And it runs great if I change out the cam sensor. I am thinking there’s an issue somewhere with voltage but unsure where to look. Cars been doing this for months! I was also told by Holley to try a grey 58x crank sensor (the new ones are black) but no one sells the grey ones.

Yes they do lock in to the fuse panel, like the factory taps do so they can't fall out, you have release the locking clip to remove....much more secure and reliable.

I'm not an expert on the LSx platform w/ Holley EFI but I've been running mine for 10+ yrs with Holley HP ECU, sequential injected and CnP but I'm traditional SBC and went with the Dual Sync Distributor for my Crank/Cam configuration.

You may need to do more research on which specific LS engine you have, which Holley Term X harness you have and the thing about the CRANK sensors is I think there is both 12v and 5v ones depending on the years/early/late (24x vs 58x?) not sure, but I seem to recall the differentiating thing was the color black vs grey.

The guys on the Holley Forums would probably know for sure much better, you may want to search/inquire there for some assistance on that front.

 

[johnnunez29]

Yes they do lock in to the fuse panel, like the factory taps do so they can't fall out, you have release the locking clip to remove....much more secure and reliable.

I'm not an expert on the LSx platform w/ Holley EFI but I've been running mine for 10+ yrs with Holley HP ECU, sequential injected and CnP but I'm traditional SBC and went with the Dual Sync Distributor for my Crank/Cam configuration.

You may need to do more research on which specific LS engine you have, which Holley Term X harness you have and the thing about the CRANK sensors is I think there is both 12v and 5v ones depending on the years/early/late (24x vs 58x?) not sure, but I seem to recall the differentiating thing was the color black vs grey.

The guys on the Holley Forums would probably know for sure much better, you may want to search/inquire there for some assistance on that front.

That is correct. 24x is 12v while the 58x is 5v. Yea I’ve been back and fourth from Holley forum to Facebook and beyond, I’ve looked at everything. Most say to check the runout of the cam sensor but if I replace it , it works fine. Like something is fouling out the sensors. I have my father in law coming by today to see if he can find the issue, he’s an automotive electrician BUT he doesn’t do this Frankenstein stuff, just oem schematics.

 

[johnnunez29]

Does anyone know the runout for a cam sensor? i measured from the cam sensor opening to the cam gear and that was approx 28mm and off the tooth i think it was like 34mm