No start No crank

[Built6spdMCSS]

Do any of these links go to the neutral safety switch? I tested for 12v to the pins on the switch that lead to the starter solenoid and it I wasn’t getting any voltage there

Keep in mind you would have had the key to the start position to get voltage through any of them on the N/S Switch.

If the fusible link is bad, something I've done in the past is clip off that plastic splice, put both wires in a lug and bolt them back up. Then in a spot that's easy to reach I've installed inline blade fuse holders and put in the right size fuse. Much easier to change out if one blows.

 

[spongbob]

You can run your own jumper wire from the positive battery to say the red wire on the starter switch you use say a 12 guage wire tuck it under the battery bolt on side post.? Then run it to the battery wire on the starter ignition switch like shuve it into the same spot on the large connector if the fuse mentioed above is blown you would be able to check if the car cranks over ect the dash lights should come on with the key turned to on such a wire might be 9 foot long and not be used forever.plus if you found the neutral switch ? Then if you like you can use a wire there to see if you have a working solinoid even starter function you simply mcgiver a hot 12v wire and touch the terminal of the nutral ok switch ( in park or maybe nuetral) switch can be on ( to start?) You should hear one of 3 things the car eng.cranks over, the car dose not crank over,or the car clicks at the solinoid, right now sounds like it could be the fuse mentioned .you'll proubly end up taking the wire that hooks behind the starter cable nut off there may be 2 of them .anouther option if it helps if you have and aftermarket hot battery cable and it has a small wire that's not used , that actually is a hookup for said primary 12v wire its kosher to hook the said ( red wire) onto this terminal I have mine hooked that way . I soldered an extension about 3 foot long and secured it to follow the starter cable up to the terminal with zip ties ect I hope you get it working and is easy .these jumper wire concepts are handy to know and in a pinch you don't even have to jack the car up.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

I know what you're saying, that's why having a multimeter and checking spots is much easier than needing test wires.

 

[Rich1473]

Keep in mind you would have had the key to the start position to get voltage through any of them on the N/S Switch.

If the fusible link is bad, something I've done in the past is clip off that plastic splice, put both wires in a lug and bolt them back up. Then in a spot that's easy to reach I've installed inline blade fuse holders and put in the right size fuse. Much easier to change out if one blows.

View attachment 238797The key was in the start position and there was still no power. But I like your idea of relocating the inline fuse. What size fuse does this take?

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

Wouldn't be surprised if the factory ones are 50 Amps or so, I managed to get a 35 A Fuse in there at the time I did what I did and it worked.

 

[stew86MCSS396]

Check for 12v constant power (regardless of key position) at the large gauge cable coming directly from your battery to the large post on the starter (almost always going to have power there) then check for 12v power at the purple (I believe) signal wire on the small post of the starter while you have someone twist the key to the crank position. If you read zero volts, check all the fuesable links. Your definitely getting power through at least one of them because you have some interior functions working currently. If you do have power at that small post, you have a starter issue. Smack the steel casing of the starter motor with a hammer just for fun a couple times and see it anything changes when you twist the key.

I seemed to missed the part where you checked any of this. Leaving a door open and observing what the dome light does while cranking can give you clues if there's a load on the battery or not.