Don't try to weld it all at once, the heat can and will distort/warp the metal enough that the mounting bolts will not line back up. Just tack weld everything then test fit. Weld your upper long main support piece first, before you make any cuts into the crossmember tubing, that will help keep everything lined up. I welded about 4 or 5 sections, 1" long or so at a time in different areas. Then let it cool, weld some more, more cooling....you get the picture. If I had to do it over again I would probally make the upper support piece a few inches longer. I've heard good things about Icemans crossmembers. The one Summit is selling looks identical to the "G Force" that I had originally purchased for my intended set up at the time (th350). That G Force is a very heavy duty piece. Felt like it belongs under a 1 ton truck, probally stronger than home-made. Years ago I had a shop modify the factory crossmember under my '78 Elky, still going strong, no problems. I'm sure some others here have more insight or tips.
Good Luck
Years ago I did one for my Cutlass. I took a different approach that I have not seen anyone else do. Not that they should. Or shouldn't for that matter as it did work well is in use today and to my knowledge hasn't cracked or anything. I am sure some couldn't or wouldn't try this approach. But I had my car at a buddy's garage up on the lift heated it up and shaped it with a short handle sledge. Never took it off the car but was careful to not heat the floor. Probably a 6 pound sledge. It took maybe 30 minutes start to finish and actually looked so good you had to look close to notice that it was not factory. Not rough at all. I figured if it cracked I wasn't out of nothing but it never did. I don't know what it cost to use the torch but I bet it wasn't more than $5.
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