OEM radiator question

[Gary Willard]

Thanks everyone for the input. When I was online looking at the alum rad pics, most all of the pics showed back, drivers side petcocks. Maybe their pics are just standard pics and not model specific, more than likely. I was looking at Champion, Cold Case, etc. The only correct petcock location pic I saw was for the Buick Regal rads. I am pretty certain that the radiator in my car is the OEM radiator. It is still copper/brass. I placed a phone call today to a local (THE only local) radiator shop I had a lead on. It was suggested to me by a trustworthy garage. I'm sure there are a few others, but I can also understand them going away with the cost of aftermarket replacements being so cheap. This place quoted boiling it out, flushing it, and pressure testing/fixing any leaks or minor problems for "starting at" $125. I may go that route. It's never been damaged and it still keeps the car between 180° and 200°, so I'm hoping the refurbish will be minimal. I'm just tired of it seeping antifreeze. I like the idea of going with an aluminum, high polished, performance looking radiator, but if they don't cool that much better, I think I'll save my money for other fixes and keep this part of the car original. I will at least look at US radiator's products, just to see what they may have.
Thanks again all!

 

[Gary Willard]

View attachment 163891

307 V8 with Heavy Duty Cooling V08. LV2 or LG8 for 83/84 H/O or 85-87 442 is radiator GM p/n 3043077. ACDelco #20065. In some cases, they use the same radiator with A/C but without HD cooling in other G-body applications. I lucked up and got a GM one right before they deep sixed them from GM. This radiator also fits 305 LG4 Monte Carlos with Heavy Duty Cooling and several others with 307 or 305 I'm sure.

Thanks for the part numbers! Would you happen to know where to look for the GM part number on my radiator? I haven't removed it yet, so I'd be curious to know where it is identified. Sure would be nice if I could find it without tearing it all apart.

 

[69hurstolds]

As far as the petcock goes, if memory serves, every G-body has a larger hole on the passenger side radiator support where the drain petcock faces straight down. With all that other junk in the way, I don't see how you could effectively drain it if the petcock was facing sideways up on the tank.

They had the part number and the 2 letter factory build code stamped on a tag that attached to the radiator on the back side (engine side). Look between the transmission lines to see if the tag is still there.

FYI, for mid-80s Olds VIN 9 cars, production code was FJ. But different codes sometimes shared the same radiator part number. Go figure.

Here's a picture graphic that may help you.

 

[mikester]

Thanks everyone for the input. When I was online looking at the alum rad pics, most all of the pics showed back, drivers side petcocks. Maybe their pics are just standard pics and not model specific, more than likely. I was looking at Champion, Cold Case, etc. The only correct petcock location pic I saw was for the Buick Regal rads. I am pretty certain that the radiator in my car is the OEM radiator. It is still copper/brass. I placed a phone call today to a local (THE only local) radiator shop I had a lead on. It was suggested to me by a trustworthy garage. I'm sure there are a few others, but I can also understand them going away with the cost of aftermarket replacements being so cheap. This place quoted boiling it out, flushing it, and pressure testing/fixing any leaks or minor problems for "starting at" $125. I may go that route. It's never been damaged and it still keeps the car between 180° and 200°, so I'm hoping the refurbish will be minimal. I'm just tired of it seeping antifreeze. I like the idea of going with an aluminum, high polished, performance looking radiator, but if they don't cool that much better, I think I'll save my money for other fixes and keep this part of the car original. I will at least look at US radiator's products, just to see what they may have.
Thanks again all!

You seem to be very concerned about the location of the petcock but like I said, every aluminum radiator out there requires mods to the hold down saddles. Some dont even fit with the saddles at all due to the shape of the tanks. The cost of a high end aluminum is equal to a 4 row copper/brass from US Radiator. I checked into having the radiator from my wagon re cored but the price was crazy high. Almost $500. Thats what made me buy the one from Summit. It was a perfect fit for $200 less. Granted its only a 3 row and not 4 but I have a stock GM crate motor. Not anything crazy. Im sure its going to be fine. My car came with a worked 355 and it had a cheesy plastic/aluminum and never got hot.

 

[Gary Willard]

As far as the petcock goes, if memory serves, every G-body has a larger hole on the passenger side radiator support where the drain petcock faces straight down. With all that other junk in the way, I don't see how you could effectively drain it if the petcock was facing sideways up on the tank.

They had the part number and the 2 letter factory build code stamped on a tag that attached to the radiator on the back side (engine side). Look between the transmission lines to see if the tag is still there.

FYI, for mid-80s Olds VIN 9 cars, production code was FJ. But different codes sometimes shared the same radiator part number. Go figure.

Here's a picture graphic that may help you.

View attachment 163913
View attachment 163914

Thanks man! My radiator is tagged with an "FJ", so it appears right to the car. I'm going to remove it soon in order to replace the timing cover seal, so I will look into my problems with it closer at that point. Much appreciated!

 

[olds307 and 403]

Check the timing chain while you have the cover off. The nylon coated cam gear tends to flake apart and end up in the oil pump pickup. My 3 core Champion aluminum ran fit the saddles and space just fine. I can't say on the fan shroud, already went to electric. The cooling was acceptable for a stock 307.