Oil/Choke idiot light coming on.

[dan2286]

Definately check the oil pressure with a gauge, it takes less than five minutes and you can see if there is going to be expensive to fix in the future. Im sure you would rather just throw a new oil pump in it, than
trying thicker oil and end up blowin the engine anyways. Better safe than sorry.

 

[STLRegal]

Well im sorta in a dilemma. I want to do a 350 swap but i didnt want to do it this soon and which im not prepared for. If this damn weather would cooperate ill try to take a look at it tommorow.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Definately check the oil pressure with a gauge, it takes less than five minutes and you can see if there is going to be expensive to fix in the future. Im sure you would rather just throw a new oil pump in it, than
trying thicker oil and end up blowin the engine anyways. Better safe than sorry.

A mere oil pump kit will do little to fix the problem on this engine. The pump housing is aluminum with steel gears inside, and tends to get gouged and eroded away fairly easily. This is where the problem exists, and a new timing cover is the only way to restore normal oil pressure. This is very pricey and time consuming to tackle for an engine that is not what you want.

It's not a Chevy V8 with it's Iron oil pump body and steel gears. Those can be replaced cheaply as you buy a whole assembly when you get a new pump for $35. The Buick V6 would probably cost $200-400 in parts to do it right, and then you'd also want to do a timing chain and gears while it was apart since they are no doubt living on borrowed time too. My AMC 360 V8 has the same design, and it has almost no oil pressure left too. For that engine, a new, better cover is available--for $600.

Change to thicker oil like a 20W-50 for now. Like I said, I ran mine for a year's worth of pizza delivery like that, manually shifting the trans when it stopped accelerating all day long. (I am BRUTAL to my delivery cars!) Just be sure you are actively working on the 350 swap's parts gathering now since you are on borrowed time. I would even think about buying a good 4 banger beater car, truck or van to chase parts with while you do the swap. If you buy one now, you will have transportation should the car die unexpectedly. You should always have at least 2 cars at all times anyways.

 

[STLRegal]

I do have some 10w-40 would that be sufficent for now? I was running 10w-30.

I have been looking into other cars, but if the car does go down I can probably work something out with one of my family members.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I do have some 10w-40 would that be sufficent for now? I was running 10w-30.

I have been looking into other cars, but if the car does go down I can probably work something out with one of my family members.

Go to Wal Mart and buy some cheap Super Tech 20 W 50. It will cost you less than $10 for 4 quarts. I even ran a little gear lube in mine once (like 1/2 a quart) to try and thicken it up.

 

[STLRegal]

ok, thanks.

While im at it, and now that i have a fire lit under my *ss, do yo know who sells crate motors at a pretty good value? Not looking for anything really built, somewhere around 250hp would be sufficent.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I had my engine built to my specs by a local machine shop. Back when it was originally done (1996), I spent $1700 on the long block. The only change to the long block since then is that I went with a slightly more aggressive cam, and better rockers. Try getting some opinions on who does good work for a good price, then shop around to see what they want to charge you. The guy I went to even supplied the core, and didn't over charge me on parts. My intake was found in the junkyard for $15 (I saw 2 SBC Performers last week, so they are in the self-serve yards still), and the carb and distributor are also junkyard pieces as were the alternator, starter, pulleys and brackets. I used a rebuilt water pump because it was cheaper than used. The fuel pump was a leftover from a friend's car as was my air filter, stock valve covers and A/C brackets. I also pulled a fan clutch, fan, radiator, transmission, fan shroud, transmission, torque converter, and trans crossmember from several junked cars and used all of the parts as is. The trans later let go, but gave me 15k miles (around 3-4 months) of service before doing so. Granted, my engine looks like a stock 305 under the hood, but it is a cheap look and it works well. You will also need to figure out your exhaust before the swap as the V6 stuff will smother even a weak 350. Now, you could find an old rusty van or wagon that runs and drives well then do a basic rings, bearings and timing chain rebuild on the engine and use everything else as is. That would be a cheap way to do it.

If you want my complete changeover parts list, I wrote a sticky on the engine forum. Most of what is listed I obtained from junkyards and did not buy new. I have an aversion to spending money since I make very little of it. There are quite a few ways to do this cheaply if you have cheap junkyards available like I have here. I have been eyeing a 87+ roller cam block for quite a while to build a cheap roller cam 350. The engine is only $125 to start with, and I find wrecked Roadmasters and Caprices which were running before their accidents with regularity. If the cylinder taper is good, you can re-ring the block, re-use the rockers, lifters and push rods, then install a used set of good heads and a used upgraded roller cam. Theoretically, the short block could be done for $500. Then you just add heads. (Stock TBI 350 heads are useless). If on a strict budget, forgo the cam and heads and just change the timing chain. I did that with a Ford 302 once that I pulled from a Town Car. Ran fine, good ring seal, etc.

Oh, one more thing: if you go to buy a U Pull It long block from a TBI 350 car, swap out the intake for one from a carb'd 305 car of the 80's. It is actually useful since it is aluminum and accepts a good carburetor. Plus, it does not cost you anything extra. Remember: you can mix and match parts before you go to the checkout counter. I would also see if I could get them to throw in some brackets by attaching the ones you want to the engine, and get the water pump too if it looks good. Just remember that the more you get with the engine, the cheaper it is in the end.

 

[Tony_SS]

ok, thanks.

While im at it, and now that i have a fire lit under my *ss, do yo know who sells crate motors at a pretty good value? Not looking for anything really built, somewhere around 250hp would be sufficent.

Charlie I think a GM crate is a good way to go for you.. they a 2 year warranty now. Checkout summit or jegs, there should be a complete one that has 260 and 290hp at a decent cost.

 

[dan2286]

Definately check the oil pressure with a gauge, it takes less than five minutes and you can see if there is going to be expensive to fix in the future. Im sure you would rather just throw a new oil pump in it, than
trying thicker oil and end up blowin the engine anyways. Better safe than sorry.

A mere oil pump kit will do little to fix the problem on this engine. The pump housing is aluminum with steel gears inside, and tends to get gouged and eroded away fairly easily. This is where the problem exists, and a new timing cover is the only way to restore normal oil pressure. This is very pricey and time consuming to tackle for an engine that is not what you want.

It's not a Chevy V8 with it's Iron oil pump body and steel gears. Those can be replaced cheaply as you buy a whole assembly when you get a new pump for $35. The Buick V6 would probably cost $200-400 in parts to do it right, and then you'd also want to do a timing chain and gears while it was apart since they are no doubt living on borrowed time too. My AMC 360 V8 has the same design, and it has almost no oil pressure left too. For that engine, a new, better cover is available--for $600.

Change to thicker oil like a 20W-50 for now. Like I said, I ran mine for a year's worth of pizza delivery like that, manually shifting the trans when it stopped accelerating all day long. (I am BRUTAL to my delivery cars!) Just be sure you are actively working on the 350 swap's parts gathering now since you are on borrowed time. I would even think about buying a good 4 banger beater car, truck or van to chase parts with while you do the swap. If you buy one now, you will have transportation should the car die unexpectedly. You should always have at least 2 cars at all times anyways.

Sorry, thinking of an Olds V8. 😳