This is dead on. If you're on an extremely tight budget, you can cobble together a factory-like TBI setup. However, these things will give up a lot of power and performance compared to any of the aftermarket options you are considering.
This is a bit misleading. If you think you might want to force induct down the road, buy an EFI system up front that can handle it. FiTech makes some systems that don't do FI and some systems that do. Problem solved. And as for non-FI upgrades (such as installing better heads, a hotter cam, etc) then any of the self-learning EFI setups can handle that change and adjust accordingly.
I think FiTech got a bad rep out of the gate. They were the first truly affordable EFI conversion, and thus they drew a lot of first-time EFI customers who had no idea what they were doing. When they got confused, or did something wrong, they would all flock to the customer support people and, quite frankly, the support people got tired of teaching people about EFI and how it works. That's not their job. But no matter what you think of their customer support, FiTech ought to be honored for redefining the bolt-on EFI market. Were it not for them, you still would have to pay at least $2000 for any sort of performance system.
The FiTech systems (and others, I am certain) use a lot of GM-style OEM components. They do this on purpose, for two reasons: these devices tend to be pretty reliable, and they are readily available at any parts store in the nation should you need a replacement. As far as paranoia about underhood heat and vibration ruining electronics, have you ever noticed where most manufacturers mount their stock computers on their EFI engines? 😉
Then you are the perfect candidate for a self-learning EFI conversion. I am right there with you, as I have a FiTech Go EFI 4 kit sitting in my garage, awaiting install. I just purchased a new fuel tank and pump assembly, so I am finally getting close to my conversion. (I will need to wait until after Easter Jeep Safari; I need to devote my current free time to finishing maintenance and prep on my Wrangler.)
I've been studying and researching EFI conversion s since before I installed by V8. Let me share the three best pieces of advice I have.
#1: read the best internet feedback available
From what I've seen, if you want to hear about experiences and get help from others who are doing the same upgrade, there is only one forum you should visit: the Team Chevelle EFI subforum (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-efi/). Here you will find hundreds of car guys who are happy to share their experiences, their failures, their successes, and so on. You can learn what not to do, and also plan your upgrade via methods that work successfully for many others. Reading threads in that forum can be time well spent.
#2: install a proper fuel delivery system
Every EFI conversion system's instructions will tell you to build a proper fuel delivery system. Every magazine review I have read will also tell you this. But despite all that, I've seen dozens of idiots (in the Chevelle forum and elsewhere) who drop a grand for their EFI system but then refuse to spend another $500 on a proper fuel delivery system to make it work... and when it doesn't work right, they loudly blame the EFI manufacturer. Don't be that guy. Yes, FiTech makes a "fuel command center" which is sort of a go-between so you don't need to alter your stock carbureted fuel tank and pump... but don't fall for it--it is often problematic. Instead, look to the factory and replicate what they did: install a baffled fuel tank with an in-tank high-output pump. Dozens and dozens of guys in the Chevelle forum report good FiTech results with a Tanks Inc tank and pump, so that's what I bought.
#3: use an acceptable intake manifold
Many guys in the forum report bizarre behavior and unsolvable issues with their self-learning EFI conversion. This generally never happens with a single plane intake, but is often seen when using a dual plane intake. For this reason, some people will say a dual plane cannot work and should be avoided. That's bad news for those of us whose engines don't need/want a single plane intake (indeed, my engine would give up a lot of low-end torque if I had to switch to a single plane). Thankfully, it isn't true. It turns out the issue is usually only seen on a dual plane intake which is fully divided, like this one:
Notice how the plenum divider comes all the way to the carb mating surface? For some reason, the EFI systems don't like it when the left side and right side throttle bodies cannot 'see' each other's signal. The solution is easy: use a dual plane manifold whose plenum divider is ground down in that area, such as my Performer RPM AirGap:
An intake like this typically sees none of the bizarre issues mentioned above. If your current dual plane intake does not have a cutout area like this on its divider but you want to continue using that intake, you can grind down the divider yourself. Numerous forum members have done this to fix their issues.
Anyway, those are three best tips I would share with anyone who wants to install an EFI conversion on their V8 car.
I agree and disagree with all of this - RESPECTFULLY.
For most people the 'self learning' systems are idiot proof if you are looking for a bump in performance with a mild cam or head upgrade. After that - they all stink until you get into the MS and Holley HP/Dominator systems. This excludes the Big Stuff, Haltech, etc. that are in the $3-8K area which are drag race only systems. The HP/Dominator stiff is great with great support, but the MS stuff has support that is better than Holley's. But the MS support expects that you know a little more than the basics.
I disagree with your comment about fuel systems. The cheapest and easiest system out there for 400-450HP is a Walbro 255 with a $20 Summit pre-filter and TPI Vette or Camaro post filter. It can be run with rubber lines capable of handling factory fuel injection. You can buy and plumb the the entire system for a little under $200. And if your HP needs go over that, then drop another $100 for a second pump or $160 for 044 Bosch that will handle 600 NA HP. The only issue with this type of setup is that the pump is not a factory part and not readily available. Personally, I setup all of our builds with two pumps and if one craps out, then run the the one that is good, but I'm yet to have this occur - but I attempt to always think ahead for the inevitability of a failure.
Regarding the Fitech, if you want to add power or boost, then you need another unit. Try to change a part on that china junk - good luck. If you have an issue, then they send you a new unit because it is pretty much non-serviceable - seen this in action. And guess what, when this occurs you're towing it and waiting for another batch of parts from china.
Old 307 and 403 - I understand your concern about EFI reliability issues. I'l give you a short story. The MS2 that been in our Cutty for over 2 years was previously in a Pontiac Astre. The reason it got moved was that the Astre rolled between 2 and 3 times and was totaled. I swapped the ECM, relay board and harness to the Cutty and fired it up with no repairs needed. Every sensor and electronic component from the dizzy to injector was transferred as well - no repairs needed. I would refer to that as relatively reliable and hardy.
In closing, if you cannot use a multimeter and do not want to read a manual, and want to buy a quality, self tuning, North American made product, then buy the Sniper. AGAIN, I mean no disrespect with my comments or thoughts.
p.s. - I have 3 MS systems in the driveway and am building the 4th as we speak. I've never had a hardware or software issue in 5 years of using them. I wish my wife's Ford could compare - lol.
Sincerely and respectfully - Jim
