Old Worn out mechanic =needs help!!

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hotrodmatt

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Sep 30, 2012
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Im old & retired & disabled. Have a 1988 olds cutlass supreme FWD car i love - giving me fits!! i have discovered I have a fuel delevery problem. Disconnected fuel lines @ engine =2.8 liter V-6 FWD = I alos have recentely changed the electric fuel pump in tank along with the fuel filter (canister) inline just outside fuel tank inline. My problem is this= The fuel pump will run -3-5 seconds- fuel comes out of line @ engine- then pump will shut off -like the entire fuel system is pressureized. What is doing this to the pump?? What electrical circuit is malfunctioning? If i turn the key on again - pump will not work!! lat sit a day or 2?? works as just described - is there a relay bad ? if so where is it at or better yet - help describe to me what the pump is quitting?
Thanx to all -im just out of ideas on this one?
 
I am no good at electrical system stuff but is there a fuel pressure regulator somewhere along the way that could be causing fits?
 
Passkey/theft deterrent system issue?

Not sure if they used the passkey system on that carline or not.
 
There are many ways the computer determines if the fuel pump should run, but OBD-1 is pretty simple. Most OBD-1 fuel systems use a fuel pump relay to initialize fuel delivery and prime the system up to pressure. It only runs for several seconds. After that, the motor is running and the computer looks to the oil pressure sensor and uses that data to keep the fuel pump working. I'm not sure if your car is exactly that way, but obviously the computer is not getting the signal to keep the fuel pump "ON". EDIT- I just checked an '89 Olds manual. The computer needs to see "reference signals" to determine if the motor is running. These can be crank sensor, etc, and the oil pressure sensor is used as a backup in case the fuel pump relay fails. So your computer is still not getting the message to keep the fuel pump "ON".
 
If your engine key has a little black bump in the middle its probably your security system disabling the fuel pump / & or injectors after your chip doesn't pass the test. Look at the dash and see if it says 'security' as you are trying to start the car up. An igntion that is wore out can set off the anti theft problem even w/o the computerized chip. Anyway, you could also try making a short video of the problem and uploading it to youtube for us? Maybe do it from a cell phone since phones take very low quality vid should upload faster from a phone and be good enough for ppl to see whats going on for you to give better advice
 
Bonnewagon said:
There are many ways the computer determines if the fuel pump should run, but OBD-1 is pretty simple. Most OBD-1 fuel systems use a fuel pump relay to initialize fuel delivery and prime the system up to pressure. It only runs for several seconds. After that, the motor is running and the computer looks to the oil pressure sensor and uses that data to keep the fuel pump working. I'm not sure if your car is exactly that way, but obviously the computer is not getting the signal to keep the fuel pump "ON". EDIT- I just checked an '89 Olds manual. The computer needs to see "reference signals" to determine if the motor is running. These can be crank sensor, etc, and the oil pressure sensor is used as a backup in case the fuel pump relay fails. So your computer is still not getting the message to keep the fuel pump "ON".

Did the car have any check engine lights? Are there any codes set? If you don't already know, you can check yourself. For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.
 
That's the problem with OBD-1. The memo goes out from the computer, but little comes back to verify. OBD-2 is light years ahead in that respect.
 
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