Pita issues with starter

[Lazarus]

Totally got screwed today. Me and my toddler play a little game every other day called let's see if dad can start the Olds. Battery was showing 12.6 V however failed the load test with half cranking amps. So somedays she cranks right over somedays I put on my charger. Today it cranked right over. Had to get my last min parts for inspection tomorrow. Drove down 6 blocks to advanced auto. Got cocky and shut it off.

Came out 5 minutes later. Dead, then I banged banged on the key and it would catch. Starter really slow. Flooded it and killed the battery. So Got my very non-understanding wife down for a jump. b*st*rd would turn over just enough to try to fire. Got a hot electrical smell not smoke but like a old train set if that makes sense. So boned bought a $115.00 battery that I was not wanting. Did the same think. Wasn't a click but a gong clang noise. Got it home though sat all day. Literally started just fine over 10 times in a row. Thought neighbor was going to call the cops.

Read on here everything and can't tell if it's heat soak. Car did idle 20 mins before leaving. Do have long tube headers. Or at half cranking amps I heated the living hell out of the starter as a form of brown out? Or do I need to tell the Mrs I need ANOTHER $100.00 for a new starter? Lol thanks guys!

 

[565bbchevy]

There are a few things I would try first starting with the battery cables, if you haven't replaced the originals consider looking into some that are a size or two larger I personally make all mine out of 1/0 welding cable even though it is kind of overkill but I still use it for all my cars.
Also with headers I always wrap the starter with a heat shield and I also use a Ford style solenoid and remotely mount it and run a solid jumper on the factory solenoid to the starter.

 

[Lazarus]

There are a few things I would try first starting with the battery cables, if you haven't replaced the originals consider looking into some that are a size or two larger I personally make all mine out of 1/0 welding cable even though it is kind of overkill but I still use it for all my cars.
Also with headers I always wrap the starter with a heat shield and I also use a Ford style solenoid and remotely mount it and run a solid jumper on the factory solenoid to the starter.

So solenoid to solenoid or do I just by pass the GM solenoid direct to starter. Did notice it has a new positive wire. She was pretty hot. So may just upgrade to thicker and get rid of the side post altogether. The ground wire on the firewall next to the distributor have anything to do with it. Looks a bit crappy.

 

[565bbchevy]

The GM solenoid stays where is on the starter but all the wiring would be ran to the remote solenoid and you run a new positive to your factory solenoid and a jumper wire to your starter. With this set up the positive cable going to the starter only has power when you are starting your engine unlike the GM set up where is it always hot.
It is always good to add and upgrade grounds
.http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-g1750.pdf

 

[Lazarus]

Thanks for the diagram. Been awhile since I tinkered with a GM . Buddy's shop has a wrecking yard in the back. Take it Ford 70/80's. Got a few old 80s F150's. Renting the lift for the day figured I'd just do it.

 

[565bbchevy]

I wouldn't waste time with a used solenoid most new ones are only around $20 even the kit Summit sells that comes with everything is only $20
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1750

 

[Lazarus]

I wouldn't waste time with a used solenoid most new ones are only around $20 even the kit Summit sells that comes with everything is only $20
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1750

Ordered awesome!!

 

[80_lemans]

Totally got screwed today. Me and my toddler play a little game every other day called let's see if dad can start the Olds. Battery was showing 12.6 V however failed the load test with half cranking amps. So somedays she cranks right over somedays I put on my charger. Today it cranked right over. Had to get my last min parts for inspection tomorrow. Drove down 6 blocks to advanced auto. Got cocky and shut it off.

Came out 5 minutes later. Dead, then I banged banged on the key and it would catch. Starter really slow.

You may want to test the alternator as well and make sure it has around high 13s or 14 volts at idle. Turns out sometimes an alternator is bad but still putting out the minimum voltage to keep the car running once started. I had a very very similar problem with my 87 olds 442. Tried 2 batteries and didn't consider the alternator at first because the car wouldn't die out. Put in new alternator and never had the problem again.

Also a battery isn't good just because it shows 12 volts. The true test of a battery is to watch the voltage drop while you have someone crank the car. Below 9 volts its bad.

 

[pontiacgp]

Have you checked the timing on the engine to make sure it is not advanced, that will make a hot engine hard to turn over

 

[Lazarus]

Only

Have you checked the timing on the engine to make sure it is not advanced, that will make a hot engine hard to turn over

Got confused on what block needs grounded. Been to cheap to buy the FSM lol. Is it the same as reading the CEL? Have no history on that 307 engine. But it was rebuilt and possible cam. Noticed it starts like my uncles 10:1 400. Like it's a little too much motor for the starter. Never been true cranking more of a wa..wa............wa bang. If that makes sense. I suck And I mean suck at timing lights. But I'm going to his shop. May be on to something there.