Plugs fouled by oil

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pontiacgp

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Mar 31, 2006
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Kitchener, Ontario
I have an issue with plugs on the passenger side getting covered in oil. The #7 is the worst one and I had changed that valve seal 2 summers ago cause #7 was fouled with oil. I'm thinking it's not the valve seals cause the #7 seal was changed but it didn't help and there is no puff of oil starting the car, cold or hot. I was using some nice looking tall aluminum valve covers on my vortec heads and I tried various methods of adding baffles cause the breather had oil in the tube and the pcv was sucking oil. Today I removed the tall valve covers and installed the stock valve covers which have a nice long baffle almost down to the surface of the head. I think that will cure the oil get sucked up by the pcv but I'm wondering why it's only the passenger side of the engine and it's worse on #7 and less on each plug going towards the front of the engine. I put in new plugs today so they'll tell me in a week or 2 if the problem is persisting.
 
If the pvc is full of oil along with the breather so will your intake. Bet if you remove the carb you'll find your intake has a nice film of oil inside. Enough not to make smoke but to foul a plug.
 
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You probably right but what I am wondering is why if it is only one side. I have sprayed carb cleaner at the intake where it meets the head to see if there is any leak there which could cause oil to be sucked up from the lifter valley but there was no leak. If it is still a problem when I check it next I'll change the intake gaskets and see if there a problem with the gasket on that side.
 
Intake gaskets sound like the likely culprit. Maybe snug up the bolts and hope it solves the problem ? Otherwise is it misfiring at all ( bad plug lead ? )
 
It's not misfiring and I agree that it is most likely the intake gaskets. With the vortec heads the bolts are only at 11 lbs of torque due to style of the intake gaskets so I think I'll make sure the bolts are property torqued and if they are then I'll change the gaskets. I have spare set just in case of problems like this and you know what it is like getting parts sometimes.
 
I have found that after a few heat cycles that I had to re-torque the intake bolts on my motor. On my 3rd set of FelPro 1255's in 5 years. And they keep going up in price ! $32, then $34 and last spring I paid $43.00 for a set of bloody gaskets!!

Friend of mine swears by the Problem Solver Intake Gaskets MS98000 after chewing thru a couple sets of 1255 intake gaskets on his work truck. He was burning a quart of oil and antifreeze between oil changes. He put them on and not an issue since. $ 500 at Summit + shipping.
 
I use the Felpro MS 90131. I bought it over a year ago and it cost me $39.55. I had changed my cam and valve springs 2 summers ago and that's when I probably messed up the gasket. I started using oil last year and changed the #7 valve seal cause that plug was the worst. I never thought it could be the intake gasket till yesterday. My mind is working slower and slower each day....:doh:
 
With the stock valve covers I'm not losing any oil. The pcv and air breather don't have any oil on them then now. The intake bolts in that corner needed to be tighened just a little so I'll pull the plugs next week to check them
 
I hope it works for you and that you don't have to take the intake off. I'm using the fel pro
1289-5 which matches up great with the fast burns and they are vortec gaskets and seem pretty solid.

At 11ft. lbs. I didn't even want to lift the engine from the carb plate to install to the car. On my mind I saw the manifold flying off because the low torque tightening specs
 
you had the same thoughts I did, 11 pounds torque on 4 slim bolts made me think twice about lifting the engine with plate...
 
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