Pontiac cyl head work.

[G-Body_Vet]

That's what I've been hearing too, but consider the cash you will be putting into the iron heads. I talked it over with my machine shop awhile ago and it adds up quick. I ended up buying a set of slightly used Edelbrocks on ebay for $1600. I'll probably do some light polishing on my own and have the shop check spring rates and deck flatness.

On the compression, the nice thing with using aluminum is that you can generally raise it some. I'll be running about 10:1, but I'm also at a higher altitude (about 4,000 feet). I should actually be safe running premium up to about 11:1 with aluminum heads and my altitude.

I haven't found a set of used aluminum under $1700 myself. Aluminum just isn't in the budget right now. I still have to buy internals, have machine work done to the block, decide on a trans/rear end, then there's paint. Besides, I'll be able to accomplish my goals with these heads anyway.

 

[67rstbkt]

The heads are -4's. This is an older guy that has built Pontiacs in the past. I've been looking at the Icon forged flat top's with 5.5cc reliefs. We're going to go as close to zero deck as possible. The ultimate goal is to make at least 400hp or enough to give LS owners trouble. One of the guys over on the PY forum is suggesting going with a Crower 60243 cam?
The heads are 78's.

The Icon pistons are nicely made; that's what I'm using in my build with pretty close to zero deck. Are you going to Dyno the motor when you're done. I'm always curious to see what these combos actually deliver. You should be able to make your goal easily and lots of torque too.

 

[67rstbkt]

I haven't found a set of used aluminum under $1700 myself. Aluminum just isn't in the budget right now. I still have to buy internals, have machine work done to the block, decide on a trans/rear end, then there's paint. Besides, I'll be able to accomplish my goals with these heads anyway.

There's good and bad to everything; after a few discussions with the machine shop, I've come to the conclusion that out of box heads need work too. They'll work, but they could always be better. I'm going to try and keep the cost down on them, but I'm sure I'll be spending at least several hundred on the Edelbrocks to improve them a bit. Plus, they are the round port style, so I need new headers or Ram Air manifolds. It definetely costs a little more to go Pontiac

 

[G-Body_Vet]

There's good and bad to everything; after a few discussions with the machine shop, I've come to the conclusion that out of box heads need work too. They'll work, but they could always be better. I'm going to try and keep the cost down on them, but I'm sure I'll be spending at least several hundred on the Edelbrocks to improve them a bit. Plus, they are the round port style, so I need new headers or Ram Air manifolds. It definetely costs a little more to go Pontiac

The round ports are something else than deterred me. It's hard enough finding d-port headers for g-bodies that fit without a little BFH persuasion. I hear there's a guy making them now but it's in the $500 range. Not worth it to me. I'm going to bite the bullet and go with the R.A.R.E. RA III manifolds with 2.5" outlets. At least with these it's a one time investment minus the header-aches! If I was trying to squeeze every last ounce of power out of it I'd consider headers, but this is a cruiser.

 

[67rstbkt]

The round ports are something else than deterred me. It's hard enough finding d-port headers for g-bodies that fit without a little BFH persuasion. I hear there's a guy making them now but it's in the $500 range. Not worth it to me. I'm going to bite the bullet and go with the R.A.R.E. RA III manifolds with 2.5" outlets. At least with these it's a one time investment minus the header-aches! If I was trying to squeeze every last ounce of power out of it I'd consider headers, but this is a cruiser.

I hear you on that; believe it or not, headers for my firebird are a pain to find too (with a Pontiac motor) so I'll probably go with the RA manifolds. I just noticed you're on performance years too; I have a thread in the same subforum as yours asking about clearances. I'm almost ready to put my shortblock together .

 

[G-Body_Vet]

I hear you on that; believe it or not, headers for my firebird are a pain to find too (with a Pontiac motor) so I'll probably go with the RA manifolds. I just noticed you're on performance years too; I have a thread in the same subforum as yours asking about clearances. I'm almost ready to put my shortblock together .

I wish I was that far ahead already. Lot's of discussion left after the heads get figured out. After I get the block machined and everything checks out; I'm weighing if it would be more cost efficient to go with a pre-balanced rotating assembly like this one for $1395

455 5140 I-Beam Assembly (For 455 Blocks)
(Tomahawk 5140 I-Beam Connecting Rods, 455 Cast Crank, Probe or Icon 455 Pistons, ACL Rod Bearings, Mahle Plasma Moly Rings, ACL Main Bearings, Balance Assembly, Rod & Pistons Hung :lol: )

OR.....

this one with the light weight rods for $1549
455 Maxx Lite A-Beam Assembly (For 455 Blocks)
(Tomahawk Maxx Lite A-Beam Connecting Rods, 455 Cast Crank, Probe or Icon 455 Pistons, ACL Rod Bearings, Mahle Plasma Moly Rings, ACL Main Bearings, Balance Assembly, Piston & Rod Pin Fit)

OR.......
Buy the rods & pistons separate, use my existing crank, then have everything balanced. Ah....decisions, decisions. And working overtime too!

 

[khan0165]

wow... this is so interesting. As a SBC guy, I wouldn't think twice about ordering a pre-balanced kit... they're so cheap, why wouldn't you. lol

 

[G-Body_Vet]

wow... this is so interesting. As a SBC guy, I wouldn't think twice about ordering a pre-balanced kit... they're so cheap, why wouldn't you. lol

The rotating assembly is more than I paid for the whole car :lol: ! A roller valvetrain retrofit costs more for a Poncho than a SBC rotating assembly! I sure do miss those small block prices! I guess that's the cost of trying to be different huh?

 

[67rstbkt]

I wish I was that far ahead already. Lot's of discussion left after the heads get figured out. After I get the block machined and everything checks out; I'm weighing if it would be more cost efficient to go with a pre-balanced rotating assembly like this one for $1395
455 5140 I-Beam Assembly (For 455 Blocks)
(Tomahawk 5140 I-Beam Connecting Rods, 455 Cast Crank, Probe or Icon 455 Pistons, ACL Rod Bearings, Mahle Plasma Moly Rings, ACL Main Bearings, Balance Assembly, Rod & Pistons Hung :lol: )
OR.....
this one with the light weight rods for $1549
455 Maxx Lite A-Beam Assembly (For 455 Blocks)
(Tomahawk Maxx Lite A-Beam Connecting Rods, 455 Cast Crank, Probe or Icon 455 Pistons, ACL Rod Bearings, Mahle Plasma Moly Rings, ACL Main Bearings, Balance Assembly, Piston & Rod Pin Fit)
OR.......
Buy the rods & pistons separate, use my existing crank, then have everything balanced. Ah....decisions, decisions. And working overtime too!

I was going to go with the Butler forged stroker kit but changed my mind after talking with my machine shop. He got me all the parts I needed and balanced them for just about the same price as I would have from one of the suppliers. I have nothing against Butler or any of the other builder/suppliers, I was just more comfortable dealing with someone in person. I know that my guy is meticulous so I'm happy I went that route. It really depends on your power goals and vehicle purpose. I've read that a lot of the stock Pontiac stuff holds up really well as long as you are realistic about power and rpm range (I'm talking like over 500-600 hp). I had my whole formula worked out and then I talked to the machine shop and everything changed, lol.

 

[67rstbkt]

wow... this is so interesting. As a SBC guy, I wouldn't think twice about ordering a pre-balanced kit... they're so cheap, why wouldn't you. lol

Yea, Pontiac is a whole different world. Much less available all around. I think the aluminum head choices out there are limited to maybe 3 or 4 companies. The cheapest that I know of are Edelbrocks at $2000