power trunk popper, 80 Cutlass? and trunk struts?

[Phoenyx]

I had a buddy with a '51 Ford ratrod. He shaved the trunk on it. And the way he opened it was with a (choke type) cable. He had the cable mounted at the bottom drivers side of the back seat. I don't know how he had it rigged up on the latch end, but if he did it successfully, it shouldn't be to hard. Something like this could work as a back-up.

 

[silent_orchestra]

I had a buddy with a '51 Ford ratrod. He shaved the trunk on it. And the way he opened it was with a (choke type) cable. He had the cable mounted at the bottom drivers side of the back seat. I don't know how he had it rigged up on the latch end, but if he did it successfully, it shouldn't be to hard. Something like this could work as a back-up.

I was wondering about that, I have some pretty long choke cables laying around too.. might try that out after I get it all set up.

 

[83hurst-olds]

the extra 6-8" inches or what ever I measured when the torsion bars are gone would be really nice, and I can find decent struts... I had the struts on my Snap On box go out on the top lid, and ordered a set of replacements from a local parts house and they've held that heavy tool box lid up for years, open the lid, leave it up for 8-12hrs close it at the end of the day.. If I just had a part # for the factory struts, I could have them find something..

A couple things. First off, I understand the strut hinges are different from the torsion bar type but I haven't ever tried to swap them so I am not sure if that is indeed the case. Second, the struts on your tool box probably only help lift the lid, once it is all the way up, then it is probably past the fulcrum point so there is no load so they would tend to last longer. They are probably not subjected to the heat inside the trunk, and snap-on probably uses better suppliers than GM. Enough harping though, I am going to be the last one to try to talk you out of it. I have been there considering this exact thing, and finally left it well enough alone.

Here's a link to I think the exact ones I used on my '81 Cutlass before it got rear-ended and totalled out:
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...content=DN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base