Looking at the fittings I think this has been converted to R134 but there are no stickers saying that anywhere that I can find. It needs a charge and I want to make sure I can use standard R134.
R12 or R134?
- Thread starter DB87442
- Start date
Yeah, looks like 134a fittings to me. No absolute way to tell exactly what's in there if you didn't do it, unless you drained, flushed and redid the system from scratch. Typically, the fittings are changed for a reason. R12 fittings wouldn't need to be changed.
Not scientific, but depending on the ambient temperature, if the system is working properly, you'd likely see about 250 plus at 90 deg F. About 45-55 suction pressure. Assuming proper levels. In comparison, R12 is slightly less on the suction side, but about 180-200-ish the discharge side. At 90 deg F, and properly charged, and assuming moderate humidity. I wouldn't use this as a determining factor, however, as you probably have no idea what charge level is in the unit at the moment anyway.
Not scientific, but depending on the ambient temperature, if the system is working properly, you'd likely see about 250 plus at 90 deg F. About 45-55 suction pressure. Assuming proper levels. In comparison, R12 is slightly less on the suction side, but about 180-200-ish the discharge side. At 90 deg F, and properly charged, and assuming moderate humidity. I wouldn't use this as a determining factor, however, as you probably have no idea what charge level is in the unit at the moment anyway.
Look like R134 conversion fittings to me. Our rule of thumb was to recharge 134 at 85% of the R12 spec. Example: If the system calls for 20oz of R12, we'd charge 17oz of R134. Usually gave frosty results.
Please don't use those VatoZone recharge cans with "seal conditioner" in them. That sh*t is herpes. Get a proper evac and recharge.
Please don't use those VatoZone recharge cans with "seal conditioner" in them. That sh*t is herpes. Get a proper evac and recharge.
Looks like 134. The R12 had smaller black plastic caps. On yours it looks like the proper 134 lines and accumulator were installed and not just the conversion kit. I did several of the conversion kits back then and the new ports for high and low side just screwed onto the R12 fittings. Yours doesn't have that, so good news is whomever did the work, probably knew what they were doing.
On the home owner DYI kits and some shops, these didn't relabel the work. Reason for this is because the need of the certification. If it was done DIY or uncertified shop, the fear was EPA could come back on the home owner or shop and generate fines. This was because the DIY'er or the shop was not certified. EPA assumption was..., not certified..., you must be incompetent and it was done incorrectly, therefore..., shop deserved to be fined... If done DYI as a purchased conversion kit, by the registered car owner, they didn't really get involved. Wal-Mart and some others, sold the kit for about $35.
Like said above..., the best is to evac the system and replace the oil and refill with refrigerant. Also replace your orifice tube. You would be amazed with how many times a compressor was changed out and yet, not the orifice tube. The tube will get plugged up and if not changed, the AC will not work properly.
Not knowing what's in your area... O'Reillys Auto has the vacuum pump and manifold gauge set you need. You rent and return and the cost is returned to you as long as you return the tools. AutoZone also has same. Not sure what's in your area.
Purchase the small thermometer and place in an AC vent. When done correctly, you should have 55 to 60*F coming out of the vent.
On the home owner DYI kits and some shops, these didn't relabel the work. Reason for this is because the need of the certification. If it was done DIY or uncertified shop, the fear was EPA could come back on the home owner or shop and generate fines. This was because the DIY'er or the shop was not certified. EPA assumption was..., not certified..., you must be incompetent and it was done incorrectly, therefore..., shop deserved to be fined... If done DYI as a purchased conversion kit, by the registered car owner, they didn't really get involved. Wal-Mart and some others, sold the kit for about $35.
Like said above..., the best is to evac the system and replace the oil and refill with refrigerant. Also replace your orifice tube. You would be amazed with how many times a compressor was changed out and yet, not the orifice tube. The tube will get plugged up and if not changed, the AC will not work properly.
Not knowing what's in your area... O'Reillys Auto has the vacuum pump and manifold gauge set you need. You rent and return and the cost is returned to you as long as you return the tools. AutoZone also has same. Not sure what's in your area.
Purchase the small thermometer and place in an AC vent. When done correctly, you should have 55 to 60*F coming out of the vent.
Yes and no. Those are the ones you need to convert R12 to R134. OP already has the correct R134 ports.
R12 looks as so...
R12 = Small Black Plastic Caps as such below.
R12 looks as so...
R12 = Small Black Plastic Caps as such below.
If you are super worried on what to put in. You could use that Enviro-safe stuff, I believe that is r-12 and R134 compatible. I used that in my regal before it blew a hose 3-4 yrs later. It can be found threw a google search or on ebay or there site. Josh
134a Replacement - Enviro-Safe Products
Listing of products for sale in the 134a Replacement category at Enviro-Safe, Inc.
www.es-refrigerants.com
FYI, i'm in the process of fixing/charging my AC system. A note on renting the manifold gauges and vacuum pump - check the condition before you leave the store. I wasted hours because of a garbage manifold set with worn bushings. One bushing collapsed when I pulled vacuum and sealed the line, so I thought I had good vacuum in my system and it was just in the manifold line. An alternative to renting is buying - kits can be had for ~120ish on Amazon w/ everything you need. Not necessarily a quality brand, but if only used occasionally, probably a better option than worn rental equipment.
You should be able to do better than 60 or 55 out of the center duct. My old 80 Malibu that I converted to 134A would run 42° at 65 miles an hour on Max at the center duct on 90+ degree days obviously not every car is going to reach that level but it can be done with careful attention to proper cleaning of components and sealing of ductwork. This was with an 85% of original amount charge
