Radiator discussion: Plastic/aluminum vs brass/copper

Status
Not open for further replies.
G-Body_Vet said:
I figured I'd open a can of worms with this to get some real world opinions/experiences when it comes to radiators. Since I have a 455 Pontiac in my car, I'm putting this in the "Swap" section.

I was looking at some factory style radiators, and being somewhat old-school myself, I've always liked the traditional brass/copper 3 core radiators ( Vista Pro 438162) when I've done swaps. I was on the O'Reilly site and they have a plastic/aluminum construction radiator listed as an original 3 core replacement. (Spectra CU162)

Brass/copper lists for $225-ish
Plastic/aluminum is about $105-ish

Other than potentially damaging the plastic tanks fairly easily and the price difference, what are the thoughts on using either one of these? Are you any further ahead with something comprised of all aluminum construction?

I'm aware of Griffin and Be-Cool as well but I cant justify the cost on a relatively stock engine that will only see street duty.
IMHO, you can't go wrong with one of the aluminum/plastic tank radiators with a stockish or mildly modified engine, especially if using a mechanical fan and shroud.
 
I too was a die hard metal radiator fan. But I used an aluminum one in my Bonnewagon and it is great! A perfect fit, all connections correct. IMHO any radiator that is clean and free flowing will do the job, but since the metal ones are getting expensive, I can see why the aluminum ones are so plentiful. I will say that the manufacturer stated that ONLY distilled water/anti-freeze was to be used, and that is probably best for a metal one too, to defeat corrosion. Which is "better"? I have had great performance from both kinds, but again, only if they were clean.
 
Another thing to note is that the plastic/aluminum and some of the less costly all aluminum radiators are epoxy glued together so using the correct anti freeze and maintenance are important. If you go with all aluminum get one that is welded together and not glued.
 
Actually ALL radiators with aluminum parts need to have the correct amount of antifreeze and should only use distilled water. Good grounds in the electrical system are a must as well. Electrolysis is what destroys aluminum radiators. Change the coolant regularly.
Also never plug the overflow port of an aluminum radiator, doing so can cause the tubes to expand and block all air flow through the core. Plastic tanks are fine and any leaks that develop between the tanks and core are easy to fix at home or by a radiator shop. Broken tanks can be replaced as well.
 
I have not had trouble with plastic/aluminum radiators and they do save weight.
 
I intentionally swapped to a composite radiator. It's lighter and does a fine job of cooling. I haven't had a problem with it.

Also, you can get sacrificial anodes that screw into the radiator. It gets eaten up while leaving your radiator alone. They're made of zinc.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32060/overview/ here's an example.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor