Random No-Start - Starter Clicking
- Thread starter G_RIDE_81
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So, I found a very well known YouTuber that had a video explaining how old fusible links can degrade and cause the dreaded "click" as well as another symptom my car had (bouncing speedometer needle, dim dash lighting). I picked up some links and I also caved in and grabbed a remanufactured starter from local parts store since I would working on the starter area already. Installed both items and heard the dreaded click again. Dang!!
Did an internet search and found someone point out their experience lead to the ignition switch failing. Luckily found one nearby and installed it... Success!! I also learned that the "new" starter appeared physically bigger and appeared to have more cranking power. I guess the shop I sourced for the engine swap used a cheap off brand. Oh well. All was good until one week later, the click returned trying to get home from work. Double dang!!
Searched for more info on this scenario and found a video on voltage drop, suggesting my 40+ year old (purple) wiring could be the problem. This made a lot of sense to me given I had a new-to-me starter and ignition switch. Would be odd (but not impossible) that these parts had both failed so quickly. Was getting ready to shop for a new purple wire and check voltage when I remembered I had starter Hot Shot relay kit stashed somewhere. I looked at its wiring diagram and thought about exactly how this kit rearranges the ignition circuit in its entirety and determined this may well fix my problem AND actually modernize my ignition. Got it installed this past weekend and the MC starts instantaneous!! Performed a few more test starts with flawless consistency. I don't think she every started this easily. I think she's fixed!! Hoping not to hear that click for many years to come.
Thanks to everyone and your suggestions/info. I hope this threads helps someone else in the future.
So, I found a very well known YouTuber that had a video explaining how old fusible links can degrade and cause the dreaded "click" as well as another symptom my car had (bouncing speedometer needle, dim dash lighting). I picked up some links and I also caved in and grabbed a remanufactured starter from local parts store since I would working on the starter area already. Installed both items and heard the dreaded click again. Dang!!
Did an internet search and found someone point out their experience lead to the ignition switch failing. Luckily found one nearby and installed it... Success!! I also learned that the "new" starter appeared physically bigger and appeared to have more cranking power. I guess the shop I sourced for the engine swap used a cheap off brand. Oh well. All was good until one week later, the click returned trying to get home from work. Double dang!!
Searched for more info on this scenario and found a video on voltage drop, suggesting my 40+ year old (purple) wiring could be the problem. This made a lot of sense to me given I had a new-to-me starter and ignition switch. Would be odd (but not impossible) that these parts had both failed so quickly. Was getting ready to shop for a new purple wire and check voltage when I remembered I had starter Hot Shot relay kit stashed somewhere. I looked at its wiring diagram and thought about exactly how this kit rearranges the ignition circuit in its entirety and determined this may well fix my problem AND actually modernize my ignition. Got it installed this past weekend and the MC starts instantaneous!! Performed a few more test starts with flawless consistency. I don't think she every started this easily. I think she's fixed!! Hoping not to hear that click for many years to come.
Thanks to everyone and your suggestions/info. I hope this threads helps someone else in the future.
The day I swapped the fusible links, I noticed the purple ignition wire from ignition switch to the starter was very stiff. This is usually a sign the wire has gone bad, electricity no longer flows how it should. This was my reasoning to try out the relay.
Even if the ignition system was in perfect condition, adding the relay provides a significantly shorter path (about 6 ft. less wire) of electricity giving the starter more cranking power.
Although the function of the ignition switch acts "similar" to a relay, it is not. Studied how relays work a lot recently, having added one for the alarm-triggered trunk release as well as an auxiliary fan when operating the AC.
I had a cheap overseas starter in my Cutlass, every so often it would engage, but the teeth on the starter gear would just hit the flexplate teeth and not engage the flexplate. It made a clicking noise as well, but much louder than a normal solenoid click. More of a clang when the gear hit the flexplate.
I shimmed it, and it wouldn't engage at all. I just bought a more reputable starter and was done with it.
EDIT: That same starter was also very prone to heat soak, and being a mini starter, it really shouldn't have been. I think you just have a junky starter man.
Double EDIT: If that starter is only a year old, it likely still has warranty. Every starter I sold when I was in auto parts (left 2 years ago) had a minimum 2 year warranty, with most being lifetime. Call the shop that did the motor swap. I'm not sure what it's like where you are, but where I am, if the shop buys and installs it, and it fails, its 100% covered, parts and labor. The manufacturer covers the part, and the supplier pays a large portion of the shop labor.
I shimmed it, and it wouldn't engage at all. I just bought a more reputable starter and was done with it.
EDIT: That same starter was also very prone to heat soak, and being a mini starter, it really shouldn't have been. I think you just have a junky starter man.
Double EDIT: If that starter is only a year old, it likely still has warranty. Every starter I sold when I was in auto parts (left 2 years ago) had a minimum 2 year warranty, with most being lifetime. Call the shop that did the motor swap. I'm not sure what it's like where you are, but where I am, if the shop buys and installs it, and it fails, its 100% covered, parts and labor. The manufacturer covers the part, and the supplier pays a large portion of the shop labor.
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I've read that using a heat wrap possibly bakes the starter, making it more prone to heat soak issues.... you're better off using a heat sheild so theres sufficient aiflow around the starter at all times.
Example pics of heat sheild and installed on engine.
Example pics of heat sheild and installed on engine.
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Which is exactly why I keep telling people continuity tests, should be ALWAYS approached conservatively, because the wire may carry current… but not PROPERLY lol.
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