Rating Used Cars vs. Used Classic Cars Condition

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ed1948

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Aug 6, 2016
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Used car rating scores are low, average and high. Low needs major engine and body work and has high mileage, Average need some work, looks about right for it's age, High needs very little of anything.
With a used classic car how does this rating work? How would a 87 Monte Carlo SS, no t top, with low mileage(35Kmiles), average interior, minor tears and a bit of fading, couple of door dings, hood dings and few paint scratches - no rust, still shines, minor floorpan rust, very good chassis, very good drivetrain but possible exhaust pipe work. It seems to be average but how to figure in low mileage and better than average chassis(for the salty climate - no winters but rain and humidity damage. It's not quite casual show quality but drives well.
I'm not sure how to calculate the numbers based on the fact they that other than they were not winter driven and the interior shows wear - sun and general use wear.
 
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"asking" 11500 CDN figures to around $9000 USD. I'm thinking offering $9000 (around $7000 USD)
 
Used car rating scores are low, average and high. Low needs major engine and body work and has high mileage, Average need some work, looks about right for it's age, High needs very little of anything.
With a used classic car how does this rating work? How would a 87 Monte Carlo SS, no t top, with low mileage(35Kmiles), average interior, minor tears and a bit of fading, couple of door dings, hood dings and few paint scratches - no rust, still shines, minor floorpan rust, very good chassis, very good drivetrain but possible exhaust pipe work. It seems to be average but how to figure in low mileage and better than average chassis(for the salty climate - no winters but rain and humidity damage. It's not quite casual show quality but drives well.

The standard used car and book value terms of low average high don't really translate well to a classic or collectable car.

If anything, when dealing with a TRUE classic/collectible it's more common to see a number scale - 1 2 3 4 5 for condition.

Opinions vary, but generally speaking it would go something like this and remember, there is a range, think high to low for a scale:

#5 is absolutely parts only. May have paperwork issues, and, more likely it's completely a mess and unrestorable. Think maybe sat in a field 20 years, may not be a complete vehicle, bent frames, etc.

#4 It may or may not run. It may not even be 100% complete, but on the low end there's something there to work with for an ambitious project, or could be used for parts. Could be an abused and worn out former daily driver, something that has been yard art a few years at the bottom of the scale, up to a servicable usable vehicle where some things on it need redoing to be nice. May have rust, missing paint, multi color panels, ripped torn stained interior. High end of the scale would be a basic daily driver.

#3 is a typical nice survivor car, clean body, presentable paint with nicks and scratches, few dings if any. Could be an amateur restoration, the sort of thing that presents well at a local car show. Interior would be clean and in nice shape but not 100% perfect. Runs/drives and shouldn't have anything in the way of issues other than the average quirk an old car gets (say being cold natured when warming up or something) most of the really nice street driven cars you see would be valued as a number 3.

#2 is the ultra low mileage extremely well preserved survivor. Could also be an extremely well done restoration, professional quality. In the gbody context this car will present literally as if it was new on the dealer lot for what gm quality was in the 80s, which, admittedly had issues at times.

#1 is a concourse quality show car, basically something you don't even drive on the road. Paint is slick as glass, better than anything that ever left the factory. All chrome is better than nos production pieces ever were. Body gaps are better than 2016 cats let alone what was in production tolerances when new. These are ultra high end collector pieces that 100k being dumped into restoring is the norm. If you look anywhere on the car, above or beneath it is clean enough to literally eat off of and then be mad the food left residue on the axle or exhaust pipe before you took it off.

Two things to add/edit/update I left off... for grades 2, 3, and 4 you would have cars that rate as high or low within their bracket with some adjustment to value to account for it.

If looking at a classic value guide of the sort nada publishes, that only has a high avg low scale (and isn't a serious collector car price guide) its high avg low correspond to grades 2, 3, and 4 respectively.
 
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For the car you described, I think you're right about where you should be and not go higher on the offer.

For one thing, with the 5 digit odometer it's hard to say it hasn't rolled over to be honest. And carfax was not good on early year history. I have some 130k mile cars that were garaged and the interior well kept from new. They're nicer than many 50k original miles cars are. Upkeep and maintenance go a long way.

Maybe I'm picturing worse than you intend with dings, rust, interior defects, etc... I spent enough years dealing with new england cars, even vermont/canadian border cars to know how widely the scale of "better for the area" plays into things... that said, real low mileage cars need a good bit of work to become reliable again.

And to go for top dollar on a car without fixing exhaust issues... added to the daily wear and tear you describe... low mileage is only as good as the condition. Of what's around it. Just because the odometer says something low right now... I'd price by what needs to be done. $9k cdn / $7k us is a VERY strong offer for that car in my opinion.

Having said that, honestly for a couple thousand more I'd personally keep looking, UNLESS I'm picturing worse condition than is really there.

As bad as the gm dark claret interiors of 1985-1988 faded from maroon to grey, or wore, the aftermarket stuff does even WORSE. If you repair/restore with aftermarket, keep it OUT of the sun as much as possible or youll be redoing it every couple years.
 
It seems there are 'car enthusiasts' and then there are 'car nuts'.

The first will enjoy driving and owning the car and not be too picky about storage, weather elements exposure, just keep the shiny bits clean and when storing it hope nothing bounces off the body and when tackle boxes land on the hood --oh well! And if there is a rust bubble - just throw some extra wax on it. And when it comes time to sell - put a gold plated price on it.

The car nuts never truely get to enjoy the car experience - they won't allow smoking, eating inside, will park miles from others, avoid driving in salt or rain, park inside when not driving, spend as much effort keeping the underbody clean and preserved as they do the shiny parts, and when/if it gets seasonal storage it will be locked in an environmentally controlled vault. And when selling it, put a gold plated price on it.

I'm exaggerating the above observations - a little. I'm looking for a car, ideally somewhere between these two.
 
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How would a 87 Monte Carlo SS, no t top, with low mileage(35Kmiles), average interior, minor tears and a bit of fading, couple of door dings, hood dings and few paint scratches - no rust, still shines, minor floorpan rust, very good chassis, very good drivetrain but possible exhaust pipe work. It seems to be average but how to figure in low mileage and better than average chassis(for the salty climate - no winters but rain and humidity damage. It's not quite casual show quality but drives well..
I don't really base anything on low mileage since you can have a neglected low mileage car that sat outside or a high mileage, garage kept, well maintained car and chances are the high mileage car will be the better car and many times the low mileage cars sits for years not in proper storage which can be worse with body and frame rust along with bushings and hoses dry rotting etc.
Now I know pricing and availability in Canada is different than in the states but $7000 USD still seems very high to me for a 87' Monte SS non t-top car that needs exterior body and paint work, interior work and rust repair work along with exhaust.repair and who knows what else once you start driving it. I would personally keep looking for the cost to fix all the things this needs you could spend more money and just get a nicer car.
 
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