1982 Cutlass..How do I remove my entire dash? Where are all of the screws located? How do you remove the type of screws that are under the column? the screw is flat. Also when I remove it I am selling it its in near mint condition. no cracks and the material isnt hard and corroded. Thanks in advance
Removing Entire Dash '82 Cut
- Thread starter franknitticutlass
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First remove the under column cover and under dash covers, unbolt the steering column and lower it as much as possible.
Disconnect all connections, also disconnect the connection to the cruise control brain box as well.
If at all possible remove the column entirely first. It will save you the headache of removing the entire dash as a whole without cracking it.
Next unbolt the fuse block, there is a 1/4 bolt in the center of the fuse block on the engine compartment side under the wiper motor, remove this first and then disconnect. Next unbolt the interior side of the fuse block from the fire wall, it is two screws I believe 7mm.
Disconnect the break light and cruise switches on the pedals.
Disconnect the Break release cable by sliding the cable grommet out with a screwdriver.
Disconnect the rear defoger switch along with the RH remote mirror if also optioned.
There are 3 main 10mm bolts under the dash, one on the LH side just under the break release cable, one under the radio (there is an access hole in the plate under the radio you can slide the socket with extension in to get to this bolt, if the dash has an ashtray you may need to remove it first)
The third one on the very right side in the same spot as the one on the left was. FYI there is an identical bolt right next to it which is a ground for the Power Antennae Relay I believe, you don't need to remove this.
Disconnect the power antennae, radio and the heater controls (there is one stand alone wire that plugs in just behind the controls, this is the power wire for the blower and you need to disconnect this as well).
Almost done...
Next remove the speaker covers and RH dash vent trim.
You will see a 7mm bold behind the dash vent trim and 4 torx screws at the top of the dash, remove these.
Now carefully pull the dash out a little, get an extra pair of hands to help to avoid cracking the radio area and sides.
The main lower metal bracket goes up and over the column and is sandwiched between to metal plates, it will slide out.
The dash will come out as a whole with the fuse block, wire harness, gauges/upper pad, glove box.
I have done this many times and I don't think I am missing anything...
Disconnect all connections, also disconnect the connection to the cruise control brain box as well.
If at all possible remove the column entirely first. It will save you the headache of removing the entire dash as a whole without cracking it.
Next unbolt the fuse block, there is a 1/4 bolt in the center of the fuse block on the engine compartment side under the wiper motor, remove this first and then disconnect. Next unbolt the interior side of the fuse block from the fire wall, it is two screws I believe 7mm.
Disconnect the break light and cruise switches on the pedals.
Disconnect the Break release cable by sliding the cable grommet out with a screwdriver.
Disconnect the rear defoger switch along with the RH remote mirror if also optioned.
There are 3 main 10mm bolts under the dash, one on the LH side just under the break release cable, one under the radio (there is an access hole in the plate under the radio you can slide the socket with extension in to get to this bolt, if the dash has an ashtray you may need to remove it first)
The third one on the very right side in the same spot as the one on the left was. FYI there is an identical bolt right next to it which is a ground for the Power Antennae Relay I believe, you don't need to remove this.
Disconnect the power antennae, radio and the heater controls (there is one stand alone wire that plugs in just behind the controls, this is the power wire for the blower and you need to disconnect this as well).
Almost done...
Next remove the speaker covers and RH dash vent trim.
You will see a 7mm bold behind the dash vent trim and 4 torx screws at the top of the dash, remove these.
Now carefully pull the dash out a little, get an extra pair of hands to help to avoid cracking the radio area and sides.
The main lower metal bracket goes up and over the column and is sandwiched between to metal plates, it will slide out.
The dash will come out as a whole with the fuse block, wire harness, gauges/upper pad, glove box.
I have done this many times and I don't think I am missing anything...
Excellent write up Mike, but don't forget the speedometer cable.
Once you pull the dash away a little, you should be able to slide your hand back and just push in on the little tab right by the base of the cable and it will release.
If your car has cruise control, you can make it a little easier on yourself my unhooking the cable under the hood from the servo on the fender well to give yourself a little more slack.
Once you pull the dash away a little, you should be able to slide your hand back and just push in on the little tab right by the base of the cable and it will release.
If your car has cruise control, you can make it a little easier on yourself my unhooking the cable under the hood from the servo on the fender well to give yourself a little more slack.
Thanks Blake, I knew there's something else missing... :lol:Blake442 said:
These dash boards are very complicated creatures, I've cut up my hand pretty good the first time trying to decipher one a long time ago.
I'm pulling out my old dash right now to install a really nice one I got off an 87. Wish I had known about releasing the cruise cable under the hood. It was a pain in the *** to get behind and reach that speedo tab.
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