Removing Rusty manifold exhaust bolts
- Thread starter dickeymoore
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And, if the stars align and you actually get the nut off and the stud is in decent shape, use a brass replacement nut.
Won't corrode if you ever have to redo the job.
Won't corrode if you ever have to redo the job.
The blue tip works very well as does the Dremel.. Not too fond of the air gun though. If you break a stud you have to be careful as the cast manifold is softer then the stud when drilling it out. Prevention is the best method so take your time grasshopper. Go back with brass nuts. If the studs are corroded to almost nothing use a Dremel to cut nuts and the best way to remove the stud is a torch and heat the manifold around the stud till it glows like Rudolphs nose and then you can pull that stud tonight. (Sorry, swept up in the spirit) with a stud puller.
It's going to break. Especially if they have never been off before.
At least that's how my luck always plays out. No matter how delicate I am.
But its not really a big deal. Heat them up to get the stud out or just drill them out and then drop in a stainless bolt. No more studs to deal with.
If the stud is in good shape, brass nuts are the way to go, hands down.
Depending on the accessibility, you may have to remove entire manifold.
Or just F it and swap in a set of headers
At least that's how my luck always plays out. No matter how delicate I am.
But its not really a big deal. Heat them up to get the stud out or just drill them out and then drop in a stainless bolt. No more studs to deal with.
If the stud is in good shape, brass nuts are the way to go, hands down.
Depending on the accessibility, you may have to remove entire manifold.
Or just F it and swap in a set of headers
Word about stainless bolts into cast iron, dissimilar metals: USE ANTI-SEIZE or you WILL gall the threads.
Dam she's making someone very happy, oh an l didn't mean me 😁.
If the studs break, pull the manifolds and use a cutting torch to blow out the broken stud. The cast Iron manifold has a higher melting point than the steel stud. I have done this many times. Use the torch to blast out the stud remains, let cool, run a tap through to clean out any residual stud material, replace studs. No need to drill or take to machine shop.
As said, use the brass nuts and anti-sieze to make life easier next time.
As said, use the brass nuts and anti-sieze to make life easier next time.
Don't ry to fix this on the car unless you are a masochist. Remove the manifold and either heat the flange-end as directed above and unscrew with vice-grips, or cut them off and carefully drill out and retap the holes. Yes on the high-temp anti-sieze, yes on the longer brass nuts. Most of the replacement kits come with them these days.
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