Replacing body bushings on 1979 Monte Carlo

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if your bolts come out like this...you have issues.
IMAG3072.jpg
 
Toby that all looks familiar! I just finished my solid mount swap and I broke 6 of the bolts. My left rear was so bad that both mounts behind the tire were gone! I had to weld on a new frame rail and make new mounts for the underbody in that area. Here is what was left of all of my factory mounts.
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Preach Toby and 83Montess! Body mount replacement isn't for the faint hearted. I repaired mine with the body off, no rotisserie. Was definitely something that I do not want to do again for sure. I repaired my body holes by welding above head, no fun, but can be done. Without proper tools and a vivid imagination, this job will take a toll on you. So be prepared for some serious work if your car wasn't babied all its life.
 
It's a pretty involved job that I have performed on more than on occasion. The frame repair washers we had created
are 2.75"x1.5 IDx1'8"
I like to lay the washer down, trace, carbide burr it out, weld the new in, grind and paint.
View attachment 39860

Thanks for the replies guys. As far as the frame mounts go, mine look similar to this one. You cannot really discern where the edges of the old hole were. Is a best guess good enough? From what I understand of the mount assembly, there is at least a little bit of play so being an 1/8" or two off shouldn't matter?

For the body side mounts, I am sort of terrified to see what those look like as both my front floors are rusted through. It looks like repairing them involves replacing sheet metal and maybe welding a new retaining nut. More details of this process would be appreciated.

From what you guys are saying, it should be a decent way to get some welding practice.
 
As far as lining up the repair washers, I jacked the body up, removed the rubber mount, then set the body back down, centered up the washer, clamped the washer, then jacked it back up and welded the washer. Then repeat 12 more times. Not the best or quickest method, but realistically, I'm just trying to fix it best I can and not in for the full blown frame off restoration. I took a shot of my progress last night. Don't laugh it's a cramped two car garage.

My body mounts were pretty solid, but the frame was rusted out, so I put washers on all the bushing locations. I'm sure there are better ways, but figure it's better than it was....

Definitely alot more involved than I had originally thought. I did remove my bumpers, as most have warned, but at 195K miles, I'm figuring it will pay off.
 

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our washers are the size of the body mount, so if it rots all the way out, you can place the washer on the edge of the frame and it will be centered. Also, if you can happen to find just one side that has a circular reference, you can center the washer with that area and get the washer centered. You have 1/2" play
 
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May I assume that the washers, while it will raise the body, will not make a big enough difference to cause any problems?

After I finish with all of this, how do I "center" the body? I was looking last night as I put more PB blaster on the parts and it looked as if the body was closer to the frame on the drivers side back by # 6&7 bushings. How critical is this?

Does anybody have additional pictures of where they lifted the car on the back, front & sides? The pic 403Olds posted was the first I remember seeing of the method of raising the sides. Where are you putting the 2x4 to raise the rear? Front?


Thanks again!
 
When I did mine, I jacked up left side first... replaced the mounts, then the right side. I never jacked up the front or rear separately.
I placed the 2 x 4(or 3) on the rocker panel pinch weld. Nailing a small block next to the 2x will provide more contact surface for the jack, and yet allow you to stand the 2x on the 2" edge.
 
Take your bumper covers off so you don't wreck them.
When I did mine I unbolted the ground strap from the engine to the firewall, and unhooked the shift rod from the steering column.
There's a wire going to the proportioning valve that you might want to unhook/keep an eye on.
I had plenty of travel in my parking brake cable and the brake lines to the master cylinder can handle it. Steering shaft too.
If you want you can unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster if it makes you feel better.
Hope it goes smoothly for you. I got lucky when I did my wagon and everything was clean.
 
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