Restoring a '64 Impala
- Thread starter Keep_Floatin
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All need is some money and a little time. Dad will help but I might need to get a job. Rust is bad though. Might need to replace some of the body and the hood.
regalman4925 said:
That's a really good idea! Fix it up and make it mechanically sound and leave the body and interior as is. Rust and all. Rebuild the engine and transmission, new suspension (stock or lowered but not low-rider low), tires and maybe wheels.
I'd say leave it as your grandpa drove it or fully restore it as if he bought it new. All the way or as it is. Otherwise, it won't be *grandpa's old car*.
Having done one and in the process of doing a '65 your main areas are going to be the sheetmetal and interior / trim. As stated, you should really clean it up, not just out. This will allow you to reall access the body, interior, undercarriage and the like. Sorry for the long post but...
Sheetmetal
Being a CA car the rust might not be as extensive as say a northern or midwest car but don't be surprised if you come across it, particularly the trunk floors, braces and extensions. The only areas that don't seem to rust bad on these is the driveshaft hump and the hump over the rear axle. The driver's side floor, rocker & front post areas also see more rust due to the driver getting in / out all the time. The bottoms of the doors usually rot too because of the drain plugs / holes clogging up with debri. That's why you should actually wash it like Blake said, maybe even a pressure wash it. This helps knock the rust off and help determine where leaks could be. This will also give you a chance to find out if you should go to the next step and soda / media-blast the body. Oh, and prepare yourself that after you strip it down you're going to see even more rust than first thought. Getting that roof straight is going to cost. Also not sure if your doing a frame-off but would definitely replace all the body-bushings too.
Trim
Hopefully trim is in good shape. While this stuff is available almost everywhere it's hella expensive to replace, especially the emblems, bezels (& don't have an SS - sheesh). My suggestion is when you and your bros / pops start with this part of the project do it when you're in a good mood, don't rush and if you have to walk away due to frustration DO IT. This is one area where a BFAH-approach is not needed. The trim bends easily but doesn't go back to its original shape as well. Same with glass, it's available by hella expensive.
Suspension/Drivetrain
Rebuild kits for the front end are pretty reasonable and not too difficult to do, as are the rear-end bushings and the like. Just watch out for the coil springs, even if they're wiped they can still come flying out and do you harm!! Bushings, ball joints and these components I would try to get from the local O'Reilys, Auto Zone, Kragens or other parts stores - buying from a catalog can be expensive. Plus, you can usually get the old bushings removed and the new ones pressed in at these places or you can take them to a muffler / brake place. The brakes are not expensive either and you can upgrade to the front to discs rather easily. Conversion kits, depending on type & where you purchase, can run from $500 and up.
Personally, I would retire that inline 6 for a crate motor 350 or check out locals who may have an engine for sale. Damn near any Chevy V8 will fit in that space with hella room to spare. Or maybe a 283/327 to keep with the old-skool theme. I would also go for no less than a 3-spd auto (a TH350 will bolt right in place of the PG that's in it). You may be able to get some cash for the current drivetrain, particularly that PG. If you're planning to terrorize the street with a hot motor I'd think about upgrading the rear-end. It most likely has the 8.2 in there - they can take abuse but aren't really known for being the strongest. Also realize you have a 2-piece driveshaft plan on replacing that center carrier bearing.
Misc
It's hard to tell you what's it going to cost without first seeing the car without the stuff on / in it, as well as what's there and what's missing. This is also going to depend on your skill & comfort level, and your helpers skills.
It's going to cost some cash and yo're never going to be done
Yes, you're definitely going to have to get a job, maybe two, in order to get this project going & to keep it going
A garage would definitely help, at least in storing parts for clean-up / refurb later
Whether you do a rat rod, lowrider (the '61 - '64 look the best IMO), low-rod, build it the way YOU want to build it. It's your car, your money, blood, sweat...
You're never going to be done
By it being a '64 there are tons of parts available, I didn't have this when I built the '66 but more & more the coke-bottle Impalas are getting more parts. I suggest you start looking at the catalogs like Impala Bob's, National Parts Depot (NPD), Sinclair's Impala Parts, Year One (HELLA EXPENSIVE), Classic Chevy Muscle, Goodmark and the like. Pick up a Summit and/or Jegs catalog (hell even J.C. Whitney) for the misc stuff too. Most of these catalogs are free and that'll give you an idea of what's available and the cost. I also suggest shopping around for parts, as some places will have regular versus "date-code" parts, especially for hoses, plug wires and things. I've found there aren't any differences between the two except the coding, which I don't care because I'm not a number-matching fanatic. Lastly, start talking to people who have these cars, see where they go to get parts, service. You may be able to get deals on bodywork, paint, parts and supplies.
Keep us posted and good luck.
Sheetmetal
Being a CA car the rust might not be as extensive as say a northern or midwest car but don't be surprised if you come across it, particularly the trunk floors, braces and extensions. The only areas that don't seem to rust bad on these is the driveshaft hump and the hump over the rear axle. The driver's side floor, rocker & front post areas also see more rust due to the driver getting in / out all the time. The bottoms of the doors usually rot too because of the drain plugs / holes clogging up with debri. That's why you should actually wash it like Blake said, maybe even a pressure wash it. This helps knock the rust off and help determine where leaks could be. This will also give you a chance to find out if you should go to the next step and soda / media-blast the body. Oh, and prepare yourself that after you strip it down you're going to see even more rust than first thought. Getting that roof straight is going to cost. Also not sure if your doing a frame-off but would definitely replace all the body-bushings too.
Trim
Hopefully trim is in good shape. While this stuff is available almost everywhere it's hella expensive to replace, especially the emblems, bezels (& don't have an SS - sheesh). My suggestion is when you and your bros / pops start with this part of the project do it when you're in a good mood, don't rush and if you have to walk away due to frustration DO IT. This is one area where a BFAH-approach is not needed. The trim bends easily but doesn't go back to its original shape as well. Same with glass, it's available by hella expensive.
Suspension/Drivetrain
Rebuild kits for the front end are pretty reasonable and not too difficult to do, as are the rear-end bushings and the like. Just watch out for the coil springs, even if they're wiped they can still come flying out and do you harm!! Bushings, ball joints and these components I would try to get from the local O'Reilys, Auto Zone, Kragens or other parts stores - buying from a catalog can be expensive. Plus, you can usually get the old bushings removed and the new ones pressed in at these places or you can take them to a muffler / brake place. The brakes are not expensive either and you can upgrade to the front to discs rather easily. Conversion kits, depending on type & where you purchase, can run from $500 and up.
Personally, I would retire that inline 6 for a crate motor 350 or check out locals who may have an engine for sale. Damn near any Chevy V8 will fit in that space with hella room to spare. Or maybe a 283/327 to keep with the old-skool theme. I would also go for no less than a 3-spd auto (a TH350 will bolt right in place of the PG that's in it). You may be able to get some cash for the current drivetrain, particularly that PG. If you're planning to terrorize the street with a hot motor I'd think about upgrading the rear-end. It most likely has the 8.2 in there - they can take abuse but aren't really known for being the strongest. Also realize you have a 2-piece driveshaft plan on replacing that center carrier bearing.
Misc
It's hard to tell you what's it going to cost without first seeing the car without the stuff on / in it, as well as what's there and what's missing. This is also going to depend on your skill & comfort level, and your helpers skills.
It's going to cost some cash and yo're never going to be done
Yes, you're definitely going to have to get a job, maybe two, in order to get this project going & to keep it going
A garage would definitely help, at least in storing parts for clean-up / refurb later
Whether you do a rat rod, lowrider (the '61 - '64 look the best IMO), low-rod, build it the way YOU want to build it. It's your car, your money, blood, sweat...
You're never going to be done
By it being a '64 there are tons of parts available, I didn't have this when I built the '66 but more & more the coke-bottle Impalas are getting more parts. I suggest you start looking at the catalogs like Impala Bob's, National Parts Depot (NPD), Sinclair's Impala Parts, Year One (HELLA EXPENSIVE), Classic Chevy Muscle, Goodmark and the like. Pick up a Summit and/or Jegs catalog (hell even J.C. Whitney) for the misc stuff too. Most of these catalogs are free and that'll give you an idea of what's available and the cost. I also suggest shopping around for parts, as some places will have regular versus "date-code" parts, especially for hoses, plug wires and things. I've found there aren't any differences between the two except the coding, which I don't care because I'm not a number-matching fanatic. Lastly, start talking to people who have these cars, see where they go to get parts, service. You may be able to get deals on bodywork, paint, parts and supplies.
Keep us posted and good luck.
I had a 4 door '64 Impala when I was 19, traded a 327 for it. It had hydraulics, 350/350 and the interior was gutted except for a bench seat and dash. I was poor and batteries were expensive so I sold it dirt cheap, $500 😳 , it was pretty much rust free but missing a few trim pieces which i thought the trim was ugly anyways but it was a fun car, I'd raise the *ss all the way up and do burnouts all the way down the street. Didnt need an alarm cuz I put 13'' spokes on it and would sit it on the ground and the wheels would come up 3 or 4 inches 🙂 but like i said it needed too much work and i was poor so i sold it and got an '81 el camino, then came the '86 mustang gt, then the '80 2 door caprice that got stolen 🙁 then the '00 MC, '85 Fleetwood fwd, got married and with her came the '95 volvo 850turbo and then i bought my first car back, '81 cutlass 😀 , still got the cutty,the MC,and the Volvo I have the chance to buy a '64 327 SS with a 4spd that wasnt original to the car that needs the quarter panel fixed and some cleaning up for $2500 but were buying a house with 5 acres in feb. so i think i may forgo the '64 and get something a bit cheaper like a MCSS BUT ANYWAYS.......if it needs more work than you can afford i'd definately rat rod it, flat black with a silver bass boat flake job on the roof 8) and flame throwers out the tailpipes,whatever you decide to do, best of luck!
well as wierd as it sounds i think i may be alone on this idea but you could always just do a mate black paint job with gold metallic pinstriping and other real nice lorider deigns over it (im not a painter but i think thats possible) do the 13" with the while walls not just strip but a full wall. If you really wanted to id do it cause i like it but do 1/2 n 1/2 low rider rat rod like two face. Thats just my oppion n as i said most probably wont like it
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