Road racing
- Thread starter aerosteve
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Advice: Get video of it and put it on Youtube. :wink:
I don't care how bad you think you did, I'd love to see a 6-speed Aerocoupe racing.
When it comes to turning left and right, the guy I usually talk to is pontiacgp. Hopefully he sees this thread. Maybe he can tell you something about setup or technique.
Other than that, obviously just make sure your car is in good shape. Grease the joints, check the tires and their pressure, make sure your engine isn't running too hot, check your coolant level, check your brakes, make sure the lug nuts are on well, take it easy at first, and don't wreck! 😛
I don't care how bad you think you did, I'd love to see a 6-speed Aerocoupe racing.
When it comes to turning left and right, the guy I usually talk to is pontiacgp. Hopefully he sees this thread. Maybe he can tell you something about setup or technique.
Other than that, obviously just make sure your car is in good shape. Grease the joints, check the tires and their pressure, make sure your engine isn't running too hot, check your coolant level, check your brakes, make sure the lug nuts are on well, take it easy at first, and don't wreck! 😛
Sounds good, I've been going through the car this winter hoping to have some high speed legal fun.
My biggest concern may be the stock rearend, I'm hoping someone has tried this with a 7.6 rear, I'd like to know it's changes of making it. It looks factory new when I pulled the cover.
My biggest concern may be the stock rearend, I'm hoping someone has tried this with a 7.6 rear, I'd like to know it's changes of making it. It looks factory new when I pulled the cover.
Well if they're in decent shape then they can take some abuse. There was a member on here drag racing with one. His engine was a 6.0L Escalade engine which put him in the 12s if I remember correctly. He was using an automatic transmission though and he had a "girdle" rear end cover.
2 inch lowered spindles, brake cooling ducts on front, high perf pads and shoes, IROC hollow sway bar with poly ends, bracing added to lower A arms, Grand Prix cross bar added, cowl to radiator mount bars added, going to weld in a bar connecting the rear frame rails together. Also adding oil cooler and power steering cooler for what that's worth, and adding baffles to custom gas tank.
Stock rear, and stock wheels with H rated tires as of now.
Stock rear, and stock wheels with H rated tires as of now.
If you have stock springs their low rate isn't going to help but the hollow bar will. If you could use adjustable shocks and set them for a very slow rebound in the front and then you basically have a soft spring large bar set up. With that set up you go deeper into a corner slam the front down with braking and the shocks allow the front to stay down so you have weight on the front wheels for rotating the corner. The problem you'll have tho after a few corners is the back brakes. The drums will expand from heat and your back end will be loose under braking. The rear springs will be a problem when your trying to plant the rear coming out of a corner. I'd try the car with and without the rear bar to see which is better. The car and frame are going to flex and that does not help either. The other problem with the rear is that it's narrow. I have an A body rear that's 2.5" wider then a G body rear and the car was noticeably more stable around corners.
The drop spindles lower the car but don't help the geometry in the front. The roll center is terrible in a G body and to try to make that situation better is taller spindles to get the ball joint on upper control arm to be higher than the cross shaft so when in a corner you get increased camber. On the street I run -1º camber but if I was on a road course I'd have it a 2- 2.5º negative camber.
On the road course you will most likely not be permitted to run antifreeze so use distilled water and water wetter. For all the other fluids I'd run synthetic.
The drop spindles lower the car but don't help the geometry in the front. The roll center is terrible in a G body and to try to make that situation better is taller spindles to get the ball joint on upper control arm to be higher than the cross shaft so when in a corner you get increased camber. On the street I run -1º camber but if I was on a road course I'd have it a 2- 2.5º negative camber.
On the road course you will most likely not be permitted to run antifreeze so use distilled water and water wetter. For all the other fluids I'd run synthetic.
Thanks for the tips, I'll be adding to the car as $$ permits. At first I'm just looking to have fun, and not cause any problems. Going faster as I get more experience.
What would you say are the most important modifications to do first?
Thanks again
What would you say are the most important modifications to do first?
Thanks again
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