Rotating Assembly/update

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custom442

Royal Smart Person
Jul 4, 2008
1,889
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Houston
Hello to the Gbody community,

I am debating which rotating assembly to buy for my 350 block, I've saved up quite a bit, but hit a wall a few months ago. My boss went bankrupt in the trucking business so I had to find a regular job, and am now in school so I can't afford too much anymore. The project has since slowed to a crawl.

I went to the local library and have been reading up on the install, and will have a friend help me and check my work - who has been doing this for twice as long as I've been alive. The budget for this is around 2 grand, would like a 4340 forged steel crank (for 383 - 3.75 stroke). I'm thinking about H-rods and forged pistons, but am not sure. I would also like a set so everything goes together nicely. Am leaning toward eagle right now.

Any tips, suggestions, experiences? Thanks.
 
Re: rotating

JESSE said:

That's good quality stuff - but I just need the rotating assembly, already have the block. That price is about the going rate to - 2,500 for a block and assembly is the same if you were to build it yourself (like me, but I *had* to build the engine myself :roll: )
 
rotating

did you go to the home page ?.....they sell rotating assemblys
 
http://speedomotive.com/s-8-small-block-chevy.aspx
S-O-M doesn't have the greatest rep on engine they assemble, but they do have a good one on their parts selections.
do you plan on running nitrous, forced induction, or rev over 7k? if not you don't NEED a forged crank or pistons and the nodular iron cranks are prety strong.
one thing you should keep in mind is that you need to have the rotating assemby balanced. it's important on any engine, but critical on a stroker motor. i don't know, but i've heard that eagle has balancing issues so...
 
megaladon6 said:
http://speedomotive.com/s-8-small-block-chevy.aspx
S-O-M doesn't have the greatest rep on engine they assemble, but they do have a good one on their parts selections.
do you plan on running nitrous, forced induction, or rev over 7k? if not you don't NEED a forged crank or pistons and the nodular iron cranks are prety strong.
one thing you should keep in mind is that you need to have the rotating assemby balanced. it's important on any engine, but critical on a stroker motor. i don't know, but i've heard that eagle has balancing issues so...

I'm planning on keeping it naturally aspirated, maybe a cold air or ram air - nothing forced. I've had a bad experience with a supercharged engine before (that I didn't build), and it got expensive quick. This time I'll be smart and stick with just a carb. Although a 75 shot nitrous does sound tempting. 😀

But it will be built for what it is, a street engine making its power at 6,000 rpms. I have to force myself not to get too power crazy. I'll drop the finished engine off at my machine shop, they'll check everything and balance it for a reasonable price. I just didn't want to pay the extra 200-300$ for the install. Heard some things about eagle too, but only remote ones. It's like buying a 90's chevy - they're well built, but once in a while you get a lemon - that's why I'm having the shop check the work. Thanks for the suggestions.

:shock: Look at those forged kit prices for SOM, they're 200/300$ more than CNC's. Maybe everything fits better though.
 
custom442 said:
I'll drop the finished engine off at my machine shop, they'll check everything and balance it for a reasonable price.

When you say finished do you mean assembled?
 
Yes, although I'll have them mike the crank and measure everything to make sure the kit has the right clearance.

I wimped out, I'm buying the forged crank with I beam rods and hypereutectic pistons. I needed less compression after getting advice from a lot of people. I don't want all my money and work to crap out the bottom end 😳 The Eagle all forged kit would give too much compression for the 2 bolt -- the AFR's I'll be running perform too well for a 10:1 compression on this block. I want to keep this thing right around 500 hp (flywheel) at <6,000rpms. The forged kit didn't seem the right way to go and I didn't want to spend 500$ on splayed main caps and machine work.
 
Well I was mostly wondering how they would balance an assembled engine. They are gonna have to take it apart to check clearances and such.
Most shops will charge you a dis-assembly fee. Not trying to be a dick, just my .02's
 
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