SBC 350 and WC T-5 swap questions

Status
Not open for further replies.

CostasCutlass

Apprentice
Apr 3, 2008
61
0
6
NJ, 07003
OK guys, heres the deal: Blew up the motor (307) in the cutlass. Already had the sbc 350 waiting to be swapped in, and got laid off in January. I now have the money to get her back on the road, and also swap in a wc T-5. My first question is about the oil pan. I found this one - http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/50221/10002/-1 ,JEGS part #555-5022 , which says it will fit A & F bodies. I was wondering if anyone has any idea if this will fit/clear everything. There are a few other questions that I cant remember right now lol... thanks guys, hopefully I can have her out within a week n a half.
 
I'm going to say it *should* fit but it might be REAL close. Here's my reasoning on that statement.

When I swapped in my SBC I originally used a stock pan from about a 73 Chevelle. Fast forward - I am now using this Summit pan: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3507/

The Summit pan fits with no mods (other than a bit of ummmm *clearancing* for my 383 crank) but it is REAL close to the back of the engine crossmember. So close in fact, the brake line that runs to the pass side BARELY fit between the pan and crossmember.

So, that pan *may or may not* fit. Don't say I didn't warn ya if you get it and it don't fit LOL ...

I did the T5 swap, too. You using the hydraulic release or converting to mechanical linkage? I've run both and decided I liked the mechanical better but it does require a differant bellhousing. You can run mechanical linkage with the hydraulic bell but I was told it makes for a fast-acting (and hard to modulate) clutch release.

If you have any other questions on the swap, I'll do what I can to help.
 
I am running Hydraulic Throwout Bearing (Howe). I am running Dynomax headers and the mechanical linkage would not work. The T5 is tilted so a the bellhousing is different. I used one from a 86 V-8 Camaro and then had to cut the slave cylinder mount off the bellhousing. Then I used the hydraulic master cylinder with a russel adapter. There's a link for all the pieces on one of the websites..The only issue I have is being able to speed shift like you can do with mechanical linkage, but if you drive like a human it works fine..Dont forget the the double hump crossmember for a 700R4.
 
Thanks for the quick responses guys. As far as the setup, everything is coming out of my one buddies 3rd gen Camaro - Pedals, trans, bellhousing, master (for a blazer), and slave. I know the setup will work, it had no problem living behind his sbc 350, and in his brothers Camaro before that. I know his brother had it rebuilt a few years ago and made some upgrades. I'm getting the whole set-up for $400, which from what I've seen is pretty respectable. I'm also planing on doing the adjustable master mod that was done on ls1tech.com, but only on the rod that goes to the pedal. I figure it'll allow me to adjust the pedal, as well as not have to weld a piece to lengthen the rod.

I have thought about using the mechanical setup, but right now the simplicity and availibility of the hydro setup can't be beat for me. I had a hydro clutch in my 1990 Audi 100 quattro (damn I miss that car), and it never bothered me. Worse comes to worse I can always switch it around later.

Doug, thats just what I was wondering about, thanks for the advice. If it doesn't fit I'll just slap the stock pan back on for now I guess, I'm just trying to upgrade whats easier with the motor still out. Got a higher flow oil pump to go with the new pan, don't need anymore oiling problems :blam: .

Another shot in the dark question :mrgreen: : What about the trans crossmember? I'm not buying a new one, my other buddy is a welder, so he can take care of it for me. I'm sure he can make it work without a problem, but I was hoping someone may have some pics and measurements of a T-5 crossmember that will work in my 84 Cutlass Supreme. Only reason is I'd rather be able to pull it and have him weld it up now so I can bolt everything in and go. The cars been off the road since before December and it's killing me to not be able to drive it lol, so now that I have the money together it's gunna be a mad thrash to have it done ASAP.
 

Attachments

  • Lowers.jpg
    Lowers.jpg
    78 KB · Views: 147
  • Uppers.jpg
    Uppers.jpg
    93.5 KB · Views: 154
:bump:

JW, what benefits are there to running the hydro throwout bearing? How is pedal feel and driving? How does it compare to running a typical hydro master and slave setup? Thanks
 
The crossmember I used was the stock non-overdrive one. It does need the mount flange extended but I can't remember exactly how far. I think it was about 1" - 2".
 
I ran it because of my headers and the mechanical linkage would not work.
 
Just wanted to answer a couple of my own questions incase anyone else was looking for the same. The pan did fit without a problem. As far as the crossmember, all I had to do was drill out a new hole in the factory 200 crossmember mounting pad.
 
Glad to hear it all worked out for you. You're gonna love having a manual in it!!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor