Seat options

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Crapple21 said:
ya thats a pretty good deal i might look into that but i dont know how to weld or know anybody with a welder so i might have to go a different route
Get or borrow a flux core welder...almost fool proof. use the amp/voltage settings on the inside of the spool lid and set it on the lower range and test it out..then bump up the heat till you are confident that you are getting a good penetration. Mig/flux core welding is so much easier than arc/stick. Just remember that on thin metals, keep the metal cool by tacking it in small amounts til youve got it pretty covered. hover your hand over the metal and if its hot enough to make you want to move your hand, it need to cool. Dont rush it and you'll be fine. :wink:
 
Get or borrow a flux core welder...almost fool proof. use the amp/voltage settings on the inside of the spool lid and set it on the lower range and test it out..then bump up the heat till you are confident that you are getting a good penetration. Mig/flux core welding is so much easier than arc/stick. Just remember that on thin metals, keep the metal cool by tacking it in small amounts til youve got it pretty covered. hover your hand over the metal and if its hot enough to make you want to move your hand, it need to cool. Dont rush it and you'll be fine. :wink:

Always best to have advice from someone knowledgable LOL. I didnt' know to measure the heat by holding your hand over it good advice bill. Thanks

Crapple I bought a harbor freight flux welder on craigslist for $30 got a mask chipper and two sets of gloves with it. And from there all you can do is try and learn from your mistakes.
 
Crapple21 said:
thanks for the advice i will be on the lookout for a welder now and ill keep you guys updated if i can find one
Heres some more intelligent advice...lol.... Seriously... Flux core welders w/out gas will produce quite a bit of sparks and splatter. Simple rule to follow...thicker the metal, the more heat it can, and will take to weld it. Also, clean the metal as much as possible, but dont use solvents...just a good sanding or brushing with a wire brush. Use an old jean jacket as a welding jacket, and if you are welding vertical or overhead, put something over your skull! AND DONT USE WATER TO COOL THE WELD! it will warp the metal, just keep a good box fan nearby to draw fumes and heat away from your work. Have fun! :mrgreen:
 
Crapple21 said:
thanks for the advice i will be on the lookout for a welder now and ill keep you guys updated if i can find one
check craigslist...just dont tell them your a noob...Miller is the best bang for the buck, but there are also good Hobarts and Lincolns out there too. Get the model number of what they are selling and do a bit of research on it before you buy it. And make sure you have the correct voltage for it...IE 220 or 120volt. The better welders use 220, but there are some that work pretty good with 120volts.
 
Crapple21 said:
did you have to make custom mounts for the seats or what?
Custom mounting studs. Mine is a factory bench seat car. Since they are from an X5(SUV), Im guessing that their tracks are probably even wider than the cars. In order to retain the complete movement of the seats, I had to shorten the tracks, laterally including the shaft that connects and moves both sides at the sametime. They are still too wide to fully go all the way down. They hit where the sill plate goes. There is room to go towards the center of the car but then I wouldnt be lined up in front of the steering wheel. When I do it all over again, I will measure some 545i seats to see what the difference , if any, there is. Im 6'4'' and 225lbs so I wouldnt want the smaller 3 series seats. That being said, I love these seats. They are light yrs ahead of any seat that came stock in our cars. Extremely comfortable on my trip back from Dallas to Fl. I can take a pic of the passenger seat so you can get a visual of the work that was done, if you like.
 
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