What is a slugged center link? I come across this on circle track car part places on occasion and was wondering what actually is a slugged center link? I know that a dropped center link is used sometimes to provide clearance for a big block in some cars but the term slugged comes up with paved circle track cars but cant really find a good answer just forums with guys talking about them being not allowed in their division.
slugged center link?
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I think Ive figured this out, it use's "slugs" which are like an eccentric bushing so you can change the geometery of the tierods.So now I have yet another question why dont more handling oriented folks use this to correct for bumpsteer? Maybe they dont fit under a stock frame or cost doesnt justify gains but I am curious now.I would be interested if anyone has any experience with using something like this.
Some of these track parts are not legal or recomended for highway use. Parts have to pass certain standards to be considered safe for street use. I'm not saying that the trackparts will not hold up, but since they were never intended to see the street, they aren't certified. Not sure about these type, but I know with my offroad jeep stuff, companies build steering parts that don't have a taper (like a stock tie rod end would have), just a heim type joint which is not legal on the street. Do people do it anyway......Yup, and unless you go to a legit inspection station, you can get away with it no problem (IMO, not a good idea).
username said:
You have to remember is the circle track cars are set up to turn left and are set to rotate around the particular corners of a track. The panhar bar and the drag link (aka center link) although at either ends of the car affect each other so when setting up the panhar bar the drag link also may have to be adjusted. You set up the drag link and then you adjust the bumpsteer. The bumpsteer is basically the last thing you do. If you change anything then you may have to redo the bumpsteer. You can't always use what is used in a circle track car on the street. You'd have to set you car up for the roads and curves you plan on traveling on a particular day and if you pick up a passenger then you'll have to set the car up again for that extra weight
here an example of what we have to consider when setting up a circle track cars....there is alot of work and calculations behind those things that just turn left...
variables:
A 32" drag link at 13 deg.
A 32" panhard bar at 19 deg.
or a 28" panhard at 13 deg.
Using a 13 deg drag link angle and a 16 deg track bar angle with the same length (32") just educated guessing based on a photo.
The suspension compressing 2" causes a .4103 shift to the passanger side of the axle (caused by the trackbar) while it only causes a .3334 shift of the drag link axle side end. This will need a 0.0769 correction in the pitman arm to remain going straight.
The suspension drooping 2" causes a .4779 shift to the driver side of the axle (caused by the trackbar) while it only causes a .4103 shift of the drag link axle side end. This will need a .0676 correction in the pitman arm to remain going straight.
Using both a 13 deg drag link and track bar angle, with the track bar being 4" shorter than the drag link.
The suspension compressing 2" causes a .2917 shift to the passanger side of the axle (caused by the trackbar) while it only causes a .3334 shift of the drag link axle side end. This will need a 0.0417 correction in the pitman arm to remain going straight.
The suspension drooping 2" causes a .3590 shift to the driver side of the axle (caused by the trackbar) while it only causes a .4103 shift of the drag link axle side end. This will need a .0513 correction in the pitman arm to remain going straight.
For ease of discussion this drawing assumes their origin is the same point, but this is not true and most likely never is. Therefore uneven compression or extension throws everything out the window.
Red arc = 28" length
Blue arc = 32" length
Green line = drag link at ride height
Purple line = unparrallel equal length panhard bar at ride height, drag link at 2" droop.
I am not totally oblivious to the fact that these parts are designed for LH dominated circle track cars but the same technology is used on those very cars when setup accordingly to road race.And yes these arent big daddy govt.approved parts but I guarentee that a race car part could withstand alot more stress than a made in PRC bought @ the big box store part.A race track is a controled enviroment,no driveway dips,no speed bumps,no hauling grocerys,no hauling passengers etc.Bumpsteer is the tie rod moving in an arc when the suspesion moves up and down and the arc of the two not matching therefore changing toe.Some people use a taller ball joint I was only pondering the use of a different shaped center link to achieve the same.I total respect the math and science that goes into makeing a car go left or left and right I cant even imagine how much childress or one of the big name nextel cup car owners spends each year just on plotting suspension points.Thank you pontiacgp for the insight of just making a car turn left...
You definitely are years ahead of me in regards to suspension.
You definitely are years ahead of me in regards to suspension.
user....for as much as we know about setting a car up no one can help us figure out why a car will run like a missile one weekend and the next weekend at the same track with the same set up and tire pressures the car is so slow can't even get out of it's own way... :?
and as far as using circle track car parts on a street car I do and if you know what your looking for you'll find it cheaper most times at a circle track parts store...plus the race tracks always have a classified section I look at regularly
and as far as using circle track car parts on a street car I do and if you know what your looking for you'll find it cheaper most times at a circle track parts store...plus the race tracks always have a classified section I look at regularly
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