So I am going bowtie in my 80 GP

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pete01768

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 6, 2007
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yeah, considering weight, the suspension and all that crap, plus I wanna keep my AC , i am going to do a small chevy. For me i think its good cause I am a super newbie and it seems even I cannot screw this up, like everything else its going to be harder to get the 4.3 V8 out than a new engine in... OK so here goes.... i am also taking the TH200 with it

new motor mounts
new brackets, power steering pump is shot
belts
hoses
alternator
pulleys
carb
fuel pump
oil, coolant
new radiator
trans fluid, dipsticks
HEI distributor
air cleaner
probably a th350 trans.... gas is only $3.41 a gallon
headers
water pump
thermostat & housing

I was planning on taking the whole front end apart, leave the bumper but take the grill, the fascia with the headlights, all that, and then lift the engine and trans out and slide everything foward.......


what am I missing? what do I look out for? Help!
thanks.
 
I have no experience with the turd GM sold as a 4.3 liter V8, but I did basically the same thing with my Cutlass-only it was a Buick 3.8 V6 turd I removed instead. To make my life easier, I too pulled the front clip off for better access. One thing I did that I did not see on your list was to pull the entire engine wiring harness from an 85 Grand Prix with a 305 Chevy in it and swapped it out at the same time. There are 3 or 4 harnesses under the hood of my car factory, and 3 are left there now. One runs the computer system, which I removed and plugged the hole with a sheet metal block off plate. One is for the A/C system, one is for the lights and one is for the engine. The engine and headlight harnesses look like they are on the same plug on the firewall below the wiper motor, but in fact they will separate once you unbolt them from the under dash plug (1/4 in bolt). There is also a seperate harness for cruise control if your car has it, mine does not-yet- but it will soon. Also, don't forget the power steering hose as it will likely be different, any A/C hoses and brackets will need to be changed-and get hoses safe for R134a refrigerant. Then there are the O rings and orifice tubes, accumulator ( R134a safe one), and be sure you have both ports in the system-high and low- when done. I used a HO305 air filter and cold air setup on mine and so I used the A/C brackets ,hoses and condenser from that car as well ( not yet installed tho...). I also found that my V6 condenser to evaporator tube lacked a provision for a port, so I pulled one off a 1986 IROC Z. There are also different condensers with either a driver's side, or a passenger's side outlet. Be sure to get hoses for the right one. I think you have an older Axial compressor in yours, you may wish to use a radial R4 compressor as they are easier to find. My V6 car also required a new fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump as it was on the driver's side and a Chevy has it on the passenger's side. I again pulled one from an LG4 305 Grand Prix as well as all of the line clips and hardware. I had to remove the Grand Prix body from it's frame to get it off and did the same to install it on the Cutlass. My car uses a 1986 Monte's fan shroud and a fan and clutch from a 305 G body-I forget what kind. Don't forget that in addition to the motor mounts, you will also need the block brackets from a Chevy as well-and you also want the mounts to have the whole clamshell, not just the biscuit. Don't forget your transmission cooler lines ( sourced mine from that poor GP again), transmission cooler line brackets, alternator brackets, alternator ( if yours is not a small case already, in which case you need to re clock it to the proper position), through bolts for the mounts, alternator spacer and bolts from a Chevy, thermostat housing, battery cables, Power steering return hose-DO NOT USE FUEL HOSE!!! it will die in a year.PS requires the right type of hose., Power steering return line fitting for the steering box, bracket to keep positive cable attached to the block so it does not chafe and short out the battery (think ARC welder-saw it happen on a Camaro I swapped), trans mount, complete exhaust system including catalytic converter, torque converter for the trans, Fuel line from pump to carb (don't just use rubber hose-it abrades easily and can cause fires), plug wires and looms, new sending units for the idiot lights/factory gauges (if any), maybe a throttle cable, transmission dipstick and tube, proper rubber bushings that hold the radiator if swapping it out. Different tank widths need different bushings. If you need to pull the body, think about replacing all of the body mounts at that time too. I did it when I swapped mine out because they crumbled upon removal. Think about rebuilding your suspension at this time too if it has never been done. Yeah, I did that when I swapped as well as replacing all 4 springs. Oh, and when pulling this stuff from a donor vehicle in the junkyard, take EVERY nut, blot and fastener with you. Some are hard to get or expensive if you have to buy them.( I have 4 buckets of bolts at home and each is from a different era anc car-so I kinda know where to find a Nissan bolt VS a AMC bolt VS a GM bolt...) This goes for the distributor tie down as well as the Quadrajet bolts and fuel line.Hope this helps you out a bit!
 
ok

1980 didnt have computers yet, yay for me. i do have to dump all that air pump crap and the evaporate canister. i was going to cut the old exhaust with a reciprocating saw. oh, and I have to change the routing on the fuel line no???
 
Re: ok

pete01768 said:
1980 didnt have computers yet, yay for me. i do have to dump all that air pump crap and the evaporate canister. i was going to cut the old exhaust with a reciprocating saw. oh, and I have to change the routing on the fuel line no???
It's a definite maybe on the fuel line....depends on where it comes out and what size it is. I'd keep the evap canister as it does no harm and it'll keep your fuel tank from over pressurizing and dumping fuel in the engine bay ( had it happen on the 84 Camaro I swapped for a friend.) If I could, I'd even hook it up to the Quadrajet I plan on running soon(When I find the one I want). Oh, and another thing: If you use a transmission that requires a TV cable, BE SURE TO GET THE GEOMETRY RIGHT WHERE IT HOOKS UP ON THE CARB!!! This is why my car is supposed to be running my hybrid late 70's Chevy Q-jet with a 68 Caddy Q jet's secondary air valve door shaft, metering rods and hanger along with the primary throttle shaft from the 1984 Camaro's Q-jet. I currently have an Edelbrock Performer 600 cfm carb on it and I can tell the geometry is not quite right as compared to the Q Jet I used to run (from a 79 Buick-stopped using it because it had worn throttle shafts and won't hold idle) because of the way it shifts. Having never run a TH350, I can't say how it works ( I think it's vacuum modulated but with a kickdown cable on later models) and hopefully someone else will be able to answer questions about it. I run a TH2004R so this is a concern for me. Another thing going for the Q-Jet is that it is shorter than most other carbs for added hood clearance, and it has better fuel economy than other carbs when properly set up.As for the AIR injection system, be sure to plug off the manifold fitting where you disconnect it or the exhaust will draw in air to the combustion chamber and cause the engine to go dead lean. I had this problem and when I capped the check valves, it went away.
 
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