New member to this site but also to my gbody 82 cutlass actually first american car and loving it. I know preferred brands for imports now need to get to know the gbodys. Time has come for regular maintenance and wondering what are the preferred spark plugs(read a lot about ac delco going downhill recently), wires(accel?), and what brand oil people are using. Looks like most articles on this are outdated so looking for fresh info..engine is a Chevy 350 BTW..any help or input is greatly appreciated.
spark plugs, wires, and oil ?s
- Thread starter milw-gbody
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I use Super Tech from Wal Mart. In my opinion, the brand is less important than the frequency of the oil changes. Same with spark plugs, new cheap is usually better than old worn out and fancy.
Let the flaming commence!
Let the flaming commence!
I always change all of my cars at 2800-3000 miles for oil, just looking for the recommended brands or even more the companies to stay away from.
milw-gbody said:
He's waiting to hear hes wrong or not right. Hence flaming.
But I agree 100%. Frequency over brand. BUT, do use a quality oil filter!!! WIX are top in my book. But as far as plugs, wired, coil are concerned, any oem replacement is sufficient. When youbegin to modify, then more performance brands are desired. And welcome aboard!
As much as I try to save money, I never skimp out on oil. I've seen too many sludged up motors from using crap oil. Usually I will use 10W-30 semi synthetic or full synthetic Mobil 1 or castrol. Also changed way before I could, usually 4k miles tops.
Also I recently had an experience with spark plugs. I originally bought some autolites for my refreshed 350, and they fouled out really easy and didn't last maybe an hour of run time with repeated starts. Went out and got some cheap NGK's (they make some of the plugs for ACDelco) and they haven't fouled once and the car runs like a top.
I've had experience with NGK in the past that's been good so I wouldn't mind going that way again..in terms of modifying came with a set of headers, exhaust opened up, trick flow heads? not sure. Speaking of modifying though what to upgrade next for more power? Where to start on a carbureted build? (induction is obvious but not in near future)
Everyone will have different opinions on brand, etc. Any oil is probably fine to run as long as its API certified. I generally run Havoline or Chevron Delo. As far as wires go, stock replacements are fine unless you're running a higher output coil & module. I've always ran Autolite & Delco plugs; never had a problem. I run Purolator filters, they're great filters @ good price.
I assume you have a flat tappet equipped engine;
A few years ago they introduced a new formulation of oil with a lower amount of zink or a reduced ZDDP package. Most and sometimes all of what you'll find on the shelves at the parts store or department stores is this type of oil.
**The problem is that the old oil with the higher level ZDDP package was to partially help reduce wear and promote a long life for our old school flat tappet camshafts** -For newer engines equipped with roller camshafts it's fine to use this type of oil as they don't need as much of the ZDDP to live a long life.
Though you might get away with using newer formulation oils with a stock flat tappet camshaft and lifter package if you have an aftermarket cam with more aggressive opening and closing rates I'd stick to the oils that contain higher concentrations of ZDDP. I use Valvoline VR1 for this reason. http://www.valvoline.com/products/consu ... tor-oil/6/
Oil Filter:
In the last few years corporations have been purchasing filter manufacturers and closing down plants but keeping the name in production. Don't assume they're the same filter with a different name because they're made by the same company, there are differences. The element will have less or more pleats, pressure relief spring differences, or they'll have different anti-drain back gasket material. In some cases you really need to cut one open and examine each part to see differences, and just because it was made one way three years ago doesn't mean they're the same today. Do enough digging on oil filters and you'll find it seems they all have faults but some less than others. Some people liked K&N oil filters but since they joined the ranks of foreign produced stuff people have tapered off of them a little.
There's only a couple I will use anymore, WIX, or NAPA Gold.
Plug wires;
I've never had good luck with Accel wires.
Spark plug wires are an area where you won't get something better for nothing, just stay away from the low priced units from any manufacturer as either their shielding ability will leave you with a light show at night or their ability to transfer current will degrade rather quickly. I've had really good luck with Taylor Spiro Pro in stock daily driver and performance applications, they cost about $60-65.00. I know some people have had good luck with MSD Super Conductor Wires but they're foreign produced if that matters to you. There are better for competition applications but like all things better, they also cost more, $100.00+ :shock:
Spark plugs;
I stick to what works, Autolite cheapies, or NGK V Power.
A few years ago they introduced a new formulation of oil with a lower amount of zink or a reduced ZDDP package. Most and sometimes all of what you'll find on the shelves at the parts store or department stores is this type of oil.
**The problem is that the old oil with the higher level ZDDP package was to partially help reduce wear and promote a long life for our old school flat tappet camshafts** -For newer engines equipped with roller camshafts it's fine to use this type of oil as they don't need as much of the ZDDP to live a long life.
Though you might get away with using newer formulation oils with a stock flat tappet camshaft and lifter package if you have an aftermarket cam with more aggressive opening and closing rates I'd stick to the oils that contain higher concentrations of ZDDP. I use Valvoline VR1 for this reason. http://www.valvoline.com/products/consu ... tor-oil/6/
Oil Filter:
In the last few years corporations have been purchasing filter manufacturers and closing down plants but keeping the name in production. Don't assume they're the same filter with a different name because they're made by the same company, there are differences. The element will have less or more pleats, pressure relief spring differences, or they'll have different anti-drain back gasket material. In some cases you really need to cut one open and examine each part to see differences, and just because it was made one way three years ago doesn't mean they're the same today. Do enough digging on oil filters and you'll find it seems they all have faults but some less than others. Some people liked K&N oil filters but since they joined the ranks of foreign produced stuff people have tapered off of them a little.
There's only a couple I will use anymore, WIX, or NAPA Gold.
Plug wires;
I've never had good luck with Accel wires.
Spark plug wires are an area where you won't get something better for nothing, just stay away from the low priced units from any manufacturer as either their shielding ability will leave you with a light show at night or their ability to transfer current will degrade rather quickly. I've had really good luck with Taylor Spiro Pro in stock daily driver and performance applications, they cost about $60-65.00. I know some people have had good luck with MSD Super Conductor Wires but they're foreign produced if that matters to you. There are better for competition applications but like all things better, they also cost more, $100.00+ :shock:
Spark plugs;
I stick to what works, Autolite cheapies, or NGK V Power.
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