spark plugs, wires, and oil ?s

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Good morning Guys; Mr Thrasher, you have done your home work! I've posted elsewhere (don't remember where) the information that was introduced into my brain (my brain is full so it pushed out more hair) last year by a Very informed person ( Rick Sparks VP @ Comp cams). That is an amazing company, every time I need help they step up and go the extra 99 miles. Numerous e-mails and 5 or 6 phone calls for more than 4 hours total (Rick & I are both over 55 so we hit it off very well) my modest problem was resolved. Mostly we talked about "Oil". It's impossible for me to remember everything that was said, but I will try to summarize in a few words (Ha-HA when have I ever only typed only a few words?) what I learned. If you have flat tappets (& you want them to last as long as possible), DO NOT use the newer street oils. They have so little zinc that they (newer oils) will barely protect a mild roller OE type cam WITH OE valve springs pressures. So all flat tappet engines and all us Hot Rod type guys that have a roller WITH increased spring (more that OE) pressure we also NEED MORE zinc than these newer street oils have. More spring pressure, More zinc. I also post on the LS- GTO site and the shear number of guys destroying their roller lifters with Mobil 1 & other street oils is amazing. This subject came up after my good buddy destroyed one of his roller lifters in his ZO6 after 28,000 miles using Mobil 1: 15-50! Rick also down loaded a lot of LS oiling info that I won't go into here as so few (10%?) here are using that series engine. If you prefer non synthetic, you can't go wrong with with Comp cams oil, for us guys that run full synthetic the Driven by Joe Gibbs. I blend full synthetic Driven (Gibbs) with Valvoline racing full synthetic. You can mix weights to a custom weight for your own bearing clearances. I hope that this info will help some of you get some more miles out of you ride. Bob Jr.
 
vanrah said:
Good morning Guys; Mr Thrasher, you have done your home work!

I think because the G-Body is a cheaper car this board seems to draw a lot of new to the performance world members. I chose to regurgitate some of the what should be well known by now new oil formulation problems for the newer people just in case.
I first learned about it probably 2005-ish when alot of people were losing their cam journals and not knowing why.
Builders and cam/lifter manufacturers were pointing fingers at everybody else before it became blatantly obvious through reading and testing there was a new oil formulation out in the same old bottle that had less zink or ZDDP. Then builders and camshaft/lifter manufacturers began pointing fingers at the government/EPA and the oil manufacturers for not making it clear that it wasn't the best thing for our older engines equipped with flat tappet cams. Hell even the fantastic GM EOS that everyone was using to break in their flat tappet cams took a hit. Thus began the roller cam craze with better life and more power to boot.
 
milw-gbody said:
Everyday driving and OK for those cold winter start ups?
Yes. It's offered in 10w30, 20w50, 50, & I believe 10w40. 10w30 or 10w40 would be the best choice of those for use all year round.
 
I use Amsoil for all the lubes in my car. I have a roller cam so I'm not worried about ZDDP but if you need ZDDP

"AMSOIL Z-Rod 20w50 (ZRF) and 10w30 (ZRT). AMSOIL Z-ROD™ Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and high-performance vehicles. It features a high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage"
 
Finally have a couple days of decent weather started on car last night(no heater yet) so I pulled a plug out to cross reference it its a champion RV17YC..from the input I got I wanted to try the NGK v power plugs but the only one I found was a racing plug NGK ur4..anybody tell me if I'm missing something on the cross reference or the NGK number I'm looking for?
 
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