Good morning Guys; Mr Thrasher, you have done your home work! I've posted elsewhere (don't remember where) the information that was introduced into my brain (my brain is full so it pushed out more hair) last year by a Very informed person ( Rick Sparks VP @ Comp cams). That is an amazing company, every time I need help they step up and go the extra 99 miles. Numerous e-mails and 5 or 6 phone calls for more than 4 hours total (Rick & I are both over 55 so we hit it off very well) my modest problem was resolved. Mostly we talked about "Oil". It's impossible for me to remember everything that was said, but I will try to summarize in a few words (Ha-HA when have I ever only typed only a few words?) what I learned. If you have flat tappets (& you want them to last as long as possible), DO NOT use the newer street oils. They have so little zinc that they (newer oils) will barely protect a mild roller OE type cam WITH OE valve springs pressures. So all flat tappet engines and all us Hot Rod type guys that have a roller WITH increased spring (more that OE) pressure we also NEED MORE zinc than these newer street oils have. More spring pressure, More zinc. I also post on the LS- GTO site and the shear number of guys destroying their roller lifters with Mobil 1 & other street oils is amazing. This subject came up after my good buddy destroyed one of his roller lifters in his ZO6 after 28,000 miles using Mobil 1: 15-50! Rick also down loaded a lot of LS oiling info that I won't go into here as so few (10%?) here are using that series engine. If you prefer non synthetic, you can't go wrong with with Comp cams oil, for us guys that run full synthetic the Driven by Joe Gibbs. I blend full synthetic Driven (Gibbs) with Valvoline racing full synthetic. You can mix weights to a custom weight for your own bearing clearances. I hope that this info will help some of you get some more miles out of you ride. Bob Jr.