stall converter won't stall...sometimes

[nabob_blaster]

Hows everyone.Well I have a slight problem I bought one of those Jegs converters that supposed to stall at 2300-2700 rpm.The problem is sometimes (most of the time)when I put it gear it loads the motor up and starts moving.But sometimes I can pop the gas in neutral then put it in gear and it stalls like it is supposed to.Any takers as to what might be causing this?The combo I have requires a stall converter and the motor idles at 900 rpm

 

[87MonteSS]

Do you mean that when you put the car in gear at idle it moves?

If that's what you mean that's what's supposed to happen.

Stall speed is the RPM range that the converter will let the engine get to before full fluid coupling. It's not like a standard where nothing happens until you "drop the clutch".

 

[nabob_blaster]

Well it kinda pulls the motor down pretty good to the point it'll almost stall with a .500 cam this poses a problem when it launches.

 

[87MonteSS]

Let's start at the beginning. .500 cam is the lift, which pretty much every cam is. So:

What is the engine size
compression ratio
cam specs for duration and lift
carb or injected
trans make and model
rear gearing

 

[nabob_blaster]

1969 Z 28 4 bolt .30 350 lunati forged steel crank lt1/lt4 powderd rods 10.5to1 hyper speed pro pistons 1969 corvette camel hump heads 2.02 1.60 stainless swirl polished valves full port and polish at local speed shop cam shaft is a part#249-k12-246-3 274/286 487/490" 1800/6000 comp cam extreme energy complete kit 1.6 comp cams pro magnum roller rockers ati super dampner holley street dominator intake edlbrock 750 carb msd pro billet distributor 8mm msd wires delco plugs 1 3/4 inch pro comp headers hooker thrush 2 1/2inch glass packs no tail pipes transmission is of unknown origin but it a bop and chevy universal (didn't know they made those) custom cadillac driveshaft (engine set back 2 inches)2.7? somthing I'm guessing rear gear 255 60r15 firebird rear 225 front and that 2300to2700 rpm jegs converter no a/c no heater no fenderwells no p/s still has full interior auto meter white face gauges water,oil,volts,egtleftand right bank,ampmeter,and rpm gauge with shift light set at 5700 oh and I'm looking for a driver side headlight trim and blinker trim anything else oh and it's an 80 model 2dr

 

[R/T kota]

like 87 monte said, its not like a clutch.
Stall speed and flash speed are some times two different numbers.
If you are loading it on the brakes, it is going to try and move forward.
try this. Put it in gear with your foot on the brakes, and give it a quick rev while watching your tach.
Watch where the tach stops and the car wants to move forward hard and that will be around your stall speed.
FYI 1969 Z28 block would be a 302 not 350.

 

[nabob_blaster]

well I tried some things earlier and it is starting to come around and I don't know where you got your info but if if you'll read a little further it also came with a 350 search a little further

 

[87MonteSS]

What did you try? A torque converter isn't something that has to be "broken in", it either works or it doesn't.

Is it a lockup converter? What's the Jeg's part number so we know what we're dealing with here.

Is the trans a three speed or a four speed?

 

[R/T kota]

well I tried some things earlier and it is starting to come around and I don't know where you got your info but if if you'll read a little further it also came with a 350 search a little further

SS cars had the 350.
302 was exclusive to the Z28 seeing as the series the car was built to race in had a 305 ci limit.
I think you need to do your research.

 

[nabob_blaster]

the jegs part number is 555-60400 2300-2700 rpm street performance converter I drove to the stop sign a mile down the road and when I stopped it was like it wasn't in gear so I slowly revved it up and at 2900 it went bang and took off but I only went a few feet and stopped again but this time it acted normal so I held my foot on the brake and gave it a little gas and it was sliding the tires below 2000 (the front ones)I checked the fluid when I got home and was full checked the linkage and it seems to be in the right detent in drive at the transmission don't know why it keeps acting like this 2 weeks ago I wasn't expecting it and broke the rear u-joint and bent the drive shaft and it's a three speed non-lock up (supposed to be)with a street/strip b&m shift kit