Starting Issues

[3XBrownCutty]

first of all My '83 cutlass has a 3.8 V6 with no mods to it at all.

I replaced the plugs, gapped at .040, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and the ignition coil. We tested one of the plugs to see if it had spark and it did, but the plug was a little wet from gas and starting fluid when we tried to start it. (I also replaced all filters)

We took the plugs out and let them sit overnight to dry out. I just put the plugs back in and jump started the new battery because it sounded a little drug down, but it still didn't start.

What should I do to diagnose the problem or which parts should i think about replacing next. Help is appreciated!

 

[dan2286]

Make sure you got the firing order right. If okay, try checking timing to make sure that is right. Also, did the car run before you replaced everything. It really doesnt sound like it is fuel related, if the plugs are wet from fuel the carb sounds like its doing its job.

 

[megaladon6]

make sure the choke is completely closed.
how old is the gas?

 

[3XBrownCutty]

I drove it home from the mechanics house and it ran good then. he had only gapped the drivers side plugs to .040 because the dumb a$$ at autozone told me to gap them at .080 after i got it home i gapped the pass. side and after i did that, it ran way better. I would start it up every day after school because it isn't street legal yet. after about 5 or 6 days it wouldn't start.

at that point all that was replaced was the plugs, plug wires and the rotor.

we pulled a plug and grounded it to see if there was spark and there was none. so we got a distributor cap and ignition coil. we replaced those things and it still wouldn't start but it did have spark. it didn't make the popping sound when it sparked, in other words the spark is kind of weak. we just filled it up with new gas before we drove it home, so that isn't an issue.

just got done pulling the distributor to have it checked out tomorrow. i think it just might be that the spark is weak, i hope. don't know what else it could be

 

[megaladon6]

sounds like the ignition module in the distributor. it helps control charge time for the coil. it's a very easy fix. pull the cap, remove a couple of small screws and unplug it.
and never listen to autozone!! get a repair manual for the car. haynes, chiltons, whatever.

 

[dan2286]

sounds like the ignition module in the distributor. it helps control charge time for the coil. it's a very easy fix. pull the cap, remove a couple of small screws and unplug it.
and never listen to autozone!! get a repair manual for the car. haynes, chiltons, whatever.

You know what, I remember when I first got my Cutlass. I did a tune up on it, when I was done it wouldnt start. My neighbor came over and pointed out that they go bad. Changed that and started right up! I dont know why it failed right after the tune up.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

my dad took the whole distributor to a guy to have it tested, just talked to him and he said it's fine.

i can picture exactly where it is in the distributor, but can that still be the problem if that rest of it works fine? :?

 

[kingcolbert83]

if you say its getting spark but say it looks weak I would check the ignition module myself. If its weak then that means the magnetic field is not building up like its suppose to to put out enough to crank it. If you have a mulitmeter I would test the ignition module yourself to tell if its bad. Also with you having the plugs gapped so much means you are getting a hotter spark which means you need more spark to start to process, but Im not sure how much over you have your plugs gapped

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I would be sure you are getting 12v+ at the coil too. If not, the ignition switch could have gone bad. I had mine go bad at a junkyard. It would crank but no start. They did not have a switch like mine, so I bought one from a GM car that had the wrong orientation ( they can be left or right) and swapped out the bad contacts. It started on the first crank!

 

[3XBrownCutty]

I tested the voltage at the coil and got 11.7 at the red wire that goes into the cap.

what else could it be besides the distributor that is causing this problem??
🙁