Anyone have a good pic of where the fuel pump is mounted after having a tank sumped or a fuel cell in the car? Im also thinking of eliminating the spare tire wheel well?? Any pics/ replys would be great. Thx.
Sumping tank and need to know where to mount fuel pump
- Thread starter PapaSmurf86
- Start date
- Status
I already have the pump plus there cool! lol. Stock fuel pump in tank probley wont supply enough fuel pressure when it gets sprayed either so eventually ill need a electric pump for nitrous set up. Im sure its more than i need for the nitrous set up but its good to have a little extra fuel supply then i need. thts what the regulator is for!
Aah..OK. But if it was me, I'd spend some time on turbobuick.com to see what the in tank pumps are capable of before signing up to an external set up. I the hate noise and appearance of the external pumps.
Papa, I heard what you said but Anubis is right. Its one of the advantages of gbodys over older cars, the inexpensive "bolt up" in-tank electric pump, tank, and plug & play wireing harness. The old skool conversion worked before better options became available and is stil the only cheap way to do a 60s or 70s car. In fact it still can be a very viable route for a track car. Buy a new 600+ HP Corvette does it come with an old gravity fed loud shrill electric tank hanging below and behind the fuel tank?
Its not always easy to find a cheap used Grand National or TBI Monte tank in the local salvage yard and you can't legally ship a used tank. Ebay motors can get you a cheap new "Grand National tank". If I remember correctly like about 179 shipped.
http://www.racetronix.com can get you an aftermarket pump and plug & play as can be QUALITY wireing harness. Just click the blue Buick GN high performance fuel pump systems link. The standard single pump will handle 600HP plus live a normal new car fuel pump life and is quiet, street rear end collision safe, & discrete, as in the guy in the next lane has no reason to suspect anything is up 8)
BTW when using this setup with a carberator you additionally need a return style regulator. I used a Mallory 4309 from Jegs and an inexpensive in line fuel filter for a 350 TPI Camaro from the local auto parts. The regulator has 5 ports so one with fuel coming from the tank. A second one to fuel your motor in which you adjust to whatever pressure you want on your carberator. A third that could be used to additionally supply fuel for your spray at again whatever fuel pressure you set it at. The regulator has a little allen wrench thingy for adjusting the pressure for whatever port you are using. A fourth port as a return of un-used fuel to the tank and a 5th spare port. Its far easier, cheaper, and safer than an old style out of tank electric gravity fed pump and welding in a sump.
BTW I ran this exact setup in my 442 with the 509 motor and a Q-jet carb. Car ran a 12.50@109 cleanly in street trim, pump gas, full exhaust, radial tires and pulled off 17.0 mpg on an out of state trip. There was a lot more in it that I never got a chance to tune for. The fuel system was quiet & reliable and my fuel pressure guage would hold rock steady all the way through a 1/4 mile pass and once on up to about 135 - 140 mph blast.
Its not always easy to find a cheap used Grand National or TBI Monte tank in the local salvage yard and you can't legally ship a used tank. Ebay motors can get you a cheap new "Grand National tank". If I remember correctly like about 179 shipped.
http://www.racetronix.com can get you an aftermarket pump and plug & play as can be QUALITY wireing harness. Just click the blue Buick GN high performance fuel pump systems link. The standard single pump will handle 600HP plus live a normal new car fuel pump life and is quiet, street rear end collision safe, & discrete, as in the guy in the next lane has no reason to suspect anything is up 8)
BTW when using this setup with a carberator you additionally need a return style regulator. I used a Mallory 4309 from Jegs and an inexpensive in line fuel filter for a 350 TPI Camaro from the local auto parts. The regulator has 5 ports so one with fuel coming from the tank. A second one to fuel your motor in which you adjust to whatever pressure you want on your carberator. A third that could be used to additionally supply fuel for your spray at again whatever fuel pressure you set it at. The regulator has a little allen wrench thingy for adjusting the pressure for whatever port you are using. A fourth port as a return of un-used fuel to the tank and a 5th spare port. Its far easier, cheaper, and safer than an old style out of tank electric gravity fed pump and welding in a sump.
BTW I ran this exact setup in my 442 with the 509 motor and a Q-jet carb. Car ran a 12.50@109 cleanly in street trim, pump gas, full exhaust, radial tires and pulled off 17.0 mpg on an out of state trip. There was a lot more in it that I never got a chance to tune for. The fuel system was quiet & reliable and my fuel pressure guage would hold rock steady all the way through a 1/4 mile pass and once on up to about 135 - 140 mph blast.
I have an external fuel pump, cell and all that. I need it and plan to upgrade to a bigger pump when I have the cash...
I dont mind the noise at all. Maybe its a personal preference.
I was going to go sumped tank but after looking at the cost of sumping the tank it was cheaper and lighter to go with a cell.
I mounted a 12 gallon aluminum cell in the trunk, along with the fuel pump. Love it. dropped the tank and saved the weight.
I dont mind the noise at all. Maybe its a personal preference.
I was going to go sumped tank but after looking at the cost of sumping the tank it was cheaper and lighter to go with a cell.
I mounted a 12 gallon aluminum cell in the trunk, along with the fuel pump. Love it. dropped the tank and saved the weight.
Ghetto why do you need it, are you running in the 8s?
Some people run on the street for fun or cash and they just don't want the guy in the next lane to know whats up.
So you saved what 3 pounds off the only place you can really benefit from it ie right over the rear tires.
So as not to starve and send it to an early grave a gravity fed electric pump is best mounted behind and below the fuel tank which on a gbody normally puts it right under the rear bumper. This is not safe on the street. The one year that they held the Buick GS Nationals at National Trails raceway in Columbus Ohio there was a long line backed up to and on I-70 waiting to get in. I witness a beautiful 70ish Buick GS get rear ended and saw how quickly that car went up in flames despite that another racer had an extinguisher close by. This I found out later in the day was thought to be due in part to the out of tank pump setup which was said to be seperated from the tank by the offending cars front bumper as it was a little lower than the GS's rear bumper. This is why in part I say this old time conversion stuff should be only used on track cars or old cars that simply don't have better options. Price it out. A new tank pump & hanger/sending unit is often cheaper and easier than a electric conversion with sump or cell plus as mentioned way safer. If it were me for a street car I would consider selling that stuff to somebody with a 50s/60s/70s car or drag car and useing the cash for the next upgrade.
Some people run on the street for fun or cash and they just don't want the guy in the next lane to know whats up.
So you saved what 3 pounds off the only place you can really benefit from it ie right over the rear tires.
So as not to starve and send it to an early grave a gravity fed electric pump is best mounted behind and below the fuel tank which on a gbody normally puts it right under the rear bumper. This is not safe on the street. The one year that they held the Buick GS Nationals at National Trails raceway in Columbus Ohio there was a long line backed up to and on I-70 waiting to get in. I witness a beautiful 70ish Buick GS get rear ended and saw how quickly that car went up in flames despite that another racer had an extinguisher close by. This I found out later in the day was thought to be due in part to the out of tank pump setup which was said to be seperated from the tank by the offending cars front bumper as it was a little lower than the GS's rear bumper. This is why in part I say this old time conversion stuff should be only used on track cars or old cars that simply don't have better options. Price it out. A new tank pump & hanger/sending unit is often cheaper and easier than a electric conversion with sump or cell plus as mentioned way safer. If it were me for a street car I would consider selling that stuff to somebody with a 50s/60s/70s car or drag car and useing the cash for the next upgrade.
- Status
Similar threads
