MALIBU 💦 water pump

It's harder than it used to be, but always buy "new" water pumps whenever possible. Pay once, cry once. I know that's a big ask with 50 year-old junk nowadays, but if you can get new, do that. Just a general recommendation. SBC water pumps are easy to rebuild, but usually much tougher to get GOOD rebuild kits anymore (from what I heard), plus you likely need at least a press to do it. With a press and good rebuild kit, that's one way of saving a "concours restoration" original equipment pump. However, with a stock engine of no consequence, swapping them out is usually much more time/cost-efficient.

At the risk of showing my SBC-illiteracy, a stock 267 should inherently be the same as about any other old-school SBC configuration in general. However, I am not aware of all the different snout lengths, etc., on SBC pumps. Oldsmobile (my go to) mainly used 2 different snout lengths and getting the wrong one would definitely be a PITA if you didn't double check. I think Corvettes had a shorty, but can't recall. I've heard Chevy guys talk about long pumps but I don't pay much attention, so I might just be talking out of my azz.
You've got a very valid point about long vs short. It should be known the part numbers I provided are for Long water pumps.
 
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It's harder than it used to be, but always buy "new" water pumps whenever possible. Pay once, cry once. I know that's a big ask with 50 year-old junk nowadays, but if you can get new, do that. Just a general recommendation. SBC water pumps are easy to rebuild, but usually much tougher to get GOOD rebuild kits anymore (from what I heard), plus you likely need at least a press to do it. With a press and good rebuild kit, that's one way of saving a "concours restoration" original equipment pump. However, with a stock engine of no consequence, swapping them out is usually much more time/cost-efficient.

At the risk of showing my SBC-illiteracy, a stock 267 should inherently be the same as about any other old-school SBC configuration in general. However, I am not aware of all the different snout lengths, etc., on SBC pumps. Oldsmobile (my go to) mainly used 2 different snout lengths and getting the wrong one would definitely be a PITA if you didn't double check. I think Corvettes had a shorty, but can't recall. I've heard Chevy guys talk about long pumps but I don't pay much attention, so I might just be talking out of my azz.

SBCs are also mainly just two sizes, long pumps and short pumps. Stock 305s in G bodies use long pumps. There are also standard and reverse rotation pumps for SBCs, usually the reverse pumps are used with the later serpentine belt setups.
 
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I can't recall which engine you have. If it's SBC I chose a Duralast CWP520HDA ($70) but the same exact pump is sold as 1121HX and 20040HX as a stock replacement. It's also the same pump offered by Airtex (the maker), CVF Racing, DeMotor, Speedway, etc., some of which charge over $200. As long as you see the "X" or "A" alongside the number it's the same pump. This is proven by searching by the number stamped on the housing: GMB 130-1250HP. This is an aluminum "HD" pump that cost me $70 last spring, and the regular ones are about $45. I've never had an issue with Duralast water pumps, unlike their starters/ alternators. The AC Delco Gold part number for the iron version is 252595, $43 on Rock Auto.
Hi there. Seems like I’m getting a bit confused. As I see the coordinating numbers that you gave me which are great by the way, that seem to coincide with a serpentine set up. I was curious if aluminum was the way to go, and if so, why am I seeing the HD stating that it’s iron. I was on cardi and I found up a 62 bucks but it’s still a little strange because I don’t feel secure about pressing go. Can you send me a link for what you would purchase for a 79 non-serpentine 267 4 x 4 Malibu Classic water pump ?? The long body and shot body is something I’m learning about but again I feel insecure about making that purchase right away thanks man. Remind me to hit you up for some powder coating questions.!!
 
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At the risk of showing my SBC-illiteracy, a stock 267 should inherently be the same as about any other old-school SBC configuration in general. However, I am not aware of all the different snout lengths, etc., on SBC pumps. Oldsmobile (my go to) mainly used 2 different snout lengths and getting the wrong one would definitely be a PITA if you didn't double check. I think Corvettes had a shorty, but can't recall. I've heard Chevy guys talk about long pumps but I don't pay much attention, so I might just be talking out of my azz.
There is the "original" short pump used up to '68 on most, Vettes to '82. Next is the 1st long used from '69 to about '76 with the 2nd from then untill everything started to use the reverse flow with the serpentine set up. The difference with the 1st & 2nd long pump has a slight change caused by the change with the upper alternator bracket change. So any SBC from a 262 to the 400 uses the same pump. Like anything else, there could be a variance on the inner parts based on cooling needs with OE new but most current new & reman ones might just be the same inner parts. Pretty much they are all the same but always be carefull there might be some odd ball variance due to a special application but a general replacement part shouldn't matter.
 
Dez

You have A/C if I remember correctly. So it should be a long nose pump. Best thing I personally can recommend is checking the reviews at your normally used parts store. They should provide new and re-man’ed if something goes wrong or is wrong with it you can walk in for a replacement right away.
ACdelco is usually a good brand. And Duralast from AutoZone has good reviews. 4 to 5 stars.
Unless you want to spend more money and get a high volume pump, they should do you fine. You want quality over anything and not racing it as a major thing. FYI: if the pump doesn’t come with extra gaskets, get a pair. Cheap insurance if you mess up on the first round of install.
Sorry took too long to realize it was you 🙄. Hope that window worked out!
 
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Based on your information I would assume your engine came with a long water pump stock but it's pretty easy to tell.
1737223894317.png
 
Dez

You have A/C if I remember correctly. So it should be a long nose pump. Best thing I personally can recommend is checking the reviews at your normally used parts store. They should provide new and re-man’ed if something goes wrong or is wrong with it you can walk in for a replacement right away.
ACdelco is usually a good brand. And Duralast from AutoZone has good reviews. 4 to 5 stars.
Unless you want to spend more money and get a high volume pump, they should do you fine. You want quality over anything and not racing it as a major thing. FYI: if the pump doesn’t come with extra gaskets, get a pair. Cheap insurance if you mess up on the first round of install.
Sorry took too long to realize it was you 🙄. Hope that window worked out!
It sure did work out thanks to you!!!
Thanks for the advice. I few extra gaskets is great info!! Thanks Dez
 
Hi there. Seems like I’m getting a bit confused. As I see the coordinating numbers that you gave me which are great by the way, that seem to coincide with a serpentine set up. I was curious if aluminum was the way to go, and if so, why am I seeing the HD stating that it’s iron. I was on cardi and I found up a 62 bucks but it’s still a little strange because I don’t feel secure about pressing go. Can you send me a link for what you would purchase for a 79 non-serpentine 267 4 x 4 Malibu Classic water pump ?? The long body and shot body is something I’m learning about but again I feel insecure about making that purchase right away thanks man. Remind me to hit you up for some powder coating questions.!!
Sorry for the delayed response. The HD pump was available in both iron and aluminum, they just used the lighter version in things like the sporty Camaros and heavy Blazers. You'd be fine with either one and there's absolutely nothing wrong with the iron units, I just have a thing for aluminum and figured the lighter the better.

As for it being a serpentine: The serpentine setup we all know and love utilizes a "reverse rotation" water pump due to one belt running everything. I believe these came about in the late '80s. Just prior to that, GM was so smart that they combined V belts and 6 rib "serpentine" belts on some vehicles, using both on one car. The pump I listed is used on some of those vehicles but is still a standard rotation pump and flows the correct direction, so you may see pictures with a 6 rib belt.

Here's the Duralast pump I bough with the rear cover removed showing the high flow impeller with disc.

1737252470131.png


Some identification.

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A long water pump in its natural habitat. Does the space between the engine block and pump look the same as yours?

1737252562760.png


Twin V belts on the aluminum HD pump with a standard rotation flex fan.

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Here are some standard duty pumps that are quite affordable. From this list I'd select SKP, but would likely use Duralast if it were available locally for the same price.

Screenshot_20250118-202716~2.png

These are the better versions, and you'll see the model I chose towards the bottom, though they don't have to cost so much. Notice that the Duralast pump above sports the exact same part number, right down to the "GMB". Same part, half price.

Screenshot_20250118-202730~2.png

A standard volume iron pump from SKP, Duralast, or equivalent will be sufficient for your engine and should last thousands of miles (not just a week) while not breaking the bank. I typically prefer Delco parts but in this case chose Duralast so I could upgrade to aluminum, and have no regrets- if you want to spend the extra money to upgrade I can recommend this pump. It comes with gaskets, bolts, a pipe plug, and a threaded stud to put pressure on the timing cover and prevent cam walking. Mine was missing a gasket. Always buy gaskets.
 
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Well you got some idea of what you might get .I'm going to suggest a couple relative things seems like your car has a FaN clutch if it has some wear you shouldn't be able to rick your fan from front to rear over say 1/8" movement... and dig up a big screwdriver ( 16") to crock the fan nuts while loosening or tightening them ( visegrips?).you can glue any gaskets to your pump to keep them from moving when you stick your bolts in you might have to take the fan shroud loose or apart as I forget the exact process check the Heater hoses and clamps add any antifreeze as nessesary to cover Temps in any travel Ed winter areas while apart round up a big low drain pan .Check lower radiator hose for rot or oil soak, or occasionally a radiator clamp ( gates) no one has mentioned the king of water distribution equipment the name Gates "for hoses ,clamps ,and even pumps " ! (use)...there THE quality brand name "at a cost of coarse...so if your now thinking gates get it from a wholesaler and thanks for bringing the subject up also if this project gets any bigger we be could looking at radiators and the major improvement of new felpro head gaskets...
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